2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Myth Rock is the steep crag above the parking shoulder for Avalon. It is on the north side of the highway directly across from the Tyrolean traverse for Avalon. The definitive feature of the crag is a huge, open book dihedral ascended by the route Excalibur. The rock is mostly very solid, golden granite. The routes are mostly sport with a couple of cracks thrown in for good measure. Don't worry about the noise of cars and Harleys. As soon as you are off the ground you will only hear Boulder Creek and the turning of your soul.
To reach Myth Rock drive 8.2 miles beyond the first bridge across Boulder Creek on Highway 119 (Canyon Boulevard in Boulder). Continue past Boulder Falls (7.6 miles) and park on the right side of the road near or below the crag. One may also park at the Practice Rock (8.1 miles) or at Animal World (8.6 miles) and walk along the shoulder of the highway to the rock.
Mjolnir is the name of the mythical hammer of Thor, who is the Norse God of Thunder. Over the millenia Mjolnir has come to represent more a state of mind than an actual hammer [wielded] by the Thunder God of the Vikings (who are my ancestors). The route begins from the curb a short way left from the direct start to Excalibur. Climb steep rock to an overhanging V-shaped dihedral (crux). Lieback out of the dihedral, then climb straight up past the last two bolts to the ring anchor. The final terra...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Makes Potash Road seem like Chiefshead -- great ambiance for those partial to parking garages. The noise of an endless procession of cars and trucks powering up the grade, the fact that the climbs start on a road cut and the aroma of partially combusted petroleum set this cliff apart.
Out of all of the crags at Boulder Canyon, this is the only one where I'd fear being struck by a car while belaying. That says nothing of the climbing, but that is the difference between this crag and some others, insofar as I am concerned. The Bowling Alley has a lot of climbs far from the road, and while some are close, relatively, you don't belay on the pavement. Sound Power in an short- open system diminishes exponentially with distance, so being "twice as close" to traffic is going to make it 4X as loud, anway.