BETA PHOTO: Myth Rock, viewed from the Avalon boulder field.
Myth Rock is the steep crag above the parking shoulder for Avalon. It is on the north side of the highway directly across from the Tyrolean traverse for Avalon. The definitive feature of the crag is a huge, open book dihedral ascended by the route Excalibur. The rock is mostly very solid, golden granite. The routes are mostly sport with a couple of cracks thrown in for good measure. Don't worry about the noise of cars and Harleys. As soon as you are off the ground you will only hear Boulder Creek and the turning of your soul.
To reach Myth Rock drive 8.2 miles beyond the first bridge across Boulder Creek on Highway 119 (Canyon Boulevard in Boulder). Continue past Boulder Falls (7.6 miles) and park on the right side of the road near or below the crag. One may also park at the Practice Rock (8.1 miles) or at Animal World (8.6 miles) and walk along the shoulder of the highway to the rock.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Myth Rock:
Details: The sword in the stone. You have to use your imagination. Something cleved that beautiful dihedral and the strange split pyramid at its base. This route ascends the very steep dihedral in the crag above the parking shoulder across from Avalon. The wall faces southeast and gets nice morning sunlight. You could literally belay from your car (if you wanted to).P1: Begin from the road directly beneath the big open book of the second pitch. Climb past 2 bolts and belay from a 2-bolt anchor o...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Makes Potash Road seem like Chiefshead -- great ambiance for those partial to parking garages. The noise of an endless procession of cars and trucks powering up the grade, the fact that the climbs start on a road cut and the aroma of partially combusted petroleum set this cliff apart.
Out of all of the crags at Boulder Canyon, this is the only one where I'd fear being struck by a car while belaying. That says nothing of the climbing, but that is the difference between this crag and some others, insofar as I am concerned. The Bowling Alley has a lot of climbs far from the road, and while some are close, relatively, you don't belay on the pavement. Sound Power in an short- open system diminishes exponentially with distance, so being "twice as close" to traffic is going to make it 4X as loud, anway.