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T-Wall East
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Hungry for Heaven T 
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Mean Cuisine T 
Meeker Rat, The S 
Mirage S 
Molly and Rocket T 
Motor Booty T 
Mrs. Socrates T 
Multiple Use Area T 
My Lost China Doll T 
Myth of the Spastics T 
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No More Tiers T 
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Point of Departure T 
Points O' Contact T 
Precious Orr T 
Prerequisite for Excellence T 
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Razor Worm T 
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Restless Pedestrian T 
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Scamper Proof T 
Seal Test T 
Shiva's Last Dance T 
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Sly Willie Snores T 
Some Girls S 
Southern Express T 
Squatter's Rites T 
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Steel Puppies T 
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Steepopolis T 
Stepping Stone T 
Stone Wave T 
Sugar in the Raw T 
Sun King S 
Sunday Gardening T 
Super Slide T 
Surf's Up S 
Sweep, The T 
Tiers for Beers T 
Time Takes a Cigarette T 
Totem Pole T 
Twistin' in the Wind S 
Unknown T 
Up in Arms T 
Who Needs a Thnead? T 

Myth of the Spastics 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Might have been us
Page Views: 731
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Jan 14, 2008

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Description 

This is the long, low-angle arete in the vicinity of Sunday Gardening and Totem Pole. It's got a bit of a thinker move about 10' up, and then it backs off to advanced scampering higher up. The pro is a bit distant at the crux there so pay attention if you're near your limit. Exciting but moderate climbing that's neither wide nor dirty, nice to know about.


Location 

On the arete right of Sunday Gardening/Totem Pole.


Protection 

Standard rack.



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By Rob Dillon
Jan 14, 2008

I'm curious if anyone else has ever climbed this thing. FA(?) Rob Dillon and Brandon Mack, late '90's. Watford didn't know of anyone who'd done it, at least.