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Mystic Mile 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter, Steve Bartlett, 2000
Page Views: 2,322
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 18, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.

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Description 

Mystic Mile is a good climb on good clean rock, with a few hard moves low down on the first pitch, and another hard move on pitch two, with a lot of somewhat easier nice slab climbing in between.

Mystic Mile starts from "Ledge Two" at a small tree growing at the base of the wall, 15 feet left of the rap anchor for Into the Mystic. This anchor is at eye level as you walk along Ledge Two. The start is 20 feet right of the first big tree on Ledge Two. 100 feet up the wall above this tree is a prominent double tree. Ledge Two is reached by following the trail along the base of Sleeping Beauty to its end where it scrambles steeply up to the left end of Ledge Two, a long ledge with several large trees.

Pitch 1 (10c, 10 bolts, 100 feet): Climb past a roof near the ground on its right side. Step left then undercling right and up (good cam for extra pro) to a ceiling. Reach over the ceiling to big holds, clip, and pull over with a gymnastic move that is harder than it looks, given the great hand holds. This was the crux for me. The climbing below is also pretty hard. Climb a slab left of a small dirty corner to the anchor at a good stance. The double tree is now directly left.

Pitch 2 (9+, 7 bolts, 90 feet): Continue up the slab left of a large, left-facing corner, then move right into the corner. Place optional gear, move onto the arÍte and reach over the roof to clip a bolt. It looks hard to clear the roof, but it's only above 5.9 via a surprising move. Continue to the top past 3 more bolts staying left of some dirty thin cracks.

Although you could rap to the ground with two ropes, due to the low-angle rock, it's safer to do two one-rope rappels.

This route is probably easier than 10c by trad standards (10a?). I self-belayed this and was pretty solid, which is not the case when I lead 10c trad in Eldo.

Protection 

Pitch 1 (100'): 10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Pitch 2 (90'): 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Optional: Single set of cams from green Alien to #2 Friend.


Photos of Mystic Mile Slideshow Add Photo
Rob Andrew heel-hooking the 10c crux overhang on the first pitch.
Rob Andrew heel-hooking the 10c crux overhang on t...
Marga Powell starting the 10a crux overhang on the second pitch.
Marga Powell starting the 10a crux overhang on the...
Huge holds at and above the lip. Why is it so hard?
Huge holds at and above the lip. Why is it so hard...
Steve Matous cranking the roof on the first pitch of Mystic Mile.
Steve Matous cranking the roof on the first pitch ...
BJ on pitch 2.
BJ on pitch 2.
Marga Powell cranking the crux on the second pitch.  She's working to get her left foot stemmed on the lip of the roof.
Marga Powell cranking the crux on the second pitch...
At the first hard move. Undercling, smear, reach up for a decent edge, step left. The route continues with another hard move at the undercling flake up and right from Ken in the photo.
At the first hard move. Undercling, smear, reach u...
Marga Powell, almost through the crux on the second pitch.  She has the left-foot stem...
Marga Powell, almost through the crux on the secon...
It's easy to hook your right foot, but surprisingly hard to rock onto it.
It's easy to hook your right foot, but surprisingl...
Happiness!  The crux is over!
Happiness! The crux is over!
Sleeping Beauty, Main Wall. <br /> <br />Original photo by Ivan Rezucha.  Modified to show correct location of anchor on Mystic Mile and correct line for The Wave.
BETA PHOTO: Sleeping Beauty, Main Wall.

Original photo by Iva...
The second pitch of Mystic Mile.  The crux is turning the overhang at the top of the corner (10a). <br /> <br />The moves up the overhang are a long way above the last bolt, but there are good holds to clip the bolt above the roof.
BETA PHOTO: The second pitch of Mystic Mile. The crux is turn...
Rock'n onto that right foot....
Rock'n onto that right foot....

Comments on Mystic Mile Add Comment
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By Dana Ernst
Jul 29, 2004

Great route! The first time I climbed this route, my buddy Brent and I were amazed that we were the only ones on the wall. Animal World was swarming with people, and we had all of Sleeping Beauty to ourselves. I can't believe that there isn't a line at the bottom of this route on the weekends. The crux of the route is a mantel over a roof. The move is outrageous!!! It's not harder than 5.10+ (once you figure out how to do it), but you will probably find yourself laughing your ass off when you do it (like Brent and I were), or you'll be cursing Rossiter for grading the pitch 10c. Climbing "Into the Mystic" and then this route make for 3 excellent pitches of climbing. "Into the Mystic" hits the 2nd ledge 10 ft right of "Mystic Mile." As a side note, the picture above has the anchors too low. They are actually where the #2 is in the picture. To climb "The Wave" traverse straight right from the anchors in the middle of "Mystic Mile." I'm pretty sure that "The Wave" has a manufactured hold on it, but I'm not an expert on the subject (looked pretty suspicious). I'm also pretty sure that "The Wave" isn't 10a. It's MUCH harder than "Mystic Mile."
By david goldstein
Sep 14, 2006

I thought the 2nd pitch was the best of several we did at this cliff. Neither pitch is exceptional, but together they add up to three stars.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Take long runners and do it a single pitch.
By James R. Arnold
Sep 28, 2008

Really nice route - probably the best quality route there. I found both pitches to be harder for a tall (6 ft 2") person. The tower roof was especially awkward. 5.10c seems like a reasonable grade for P1. The 2nd pitch is probably 9 for a shorter person and 10a for a taller person.
By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Aug 15, 2010

Would have to agree w/ David, this gets the 3rd star if done as one long pitch.
By Chris Archer
Aug 13, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

The potential exists for a nasty fall without a yellow Alien between bolts 2 and 3.
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
May 20, 2014

Recommended to have your belayer tether themselves to the tree with a 10-12' runner, in order to be able to see the leader throughout the first pitch. On Sunday, I fell at the second to last bolt, and ended up taking a 30+ foot whipper due to 1) miscommunication, 2) the belayer assuming I was pulling rope for a clip, and 3) the belayer not seeing that I was going up and down on the same move several times. Ended up bruising my foot severely, hobbling down the hill, and across the river!