Another fun long route in character with the rest of the crag. A little run out to the first bolt. Crux is a 3 bolt steep section in the middle of the route. Chains are at the edge of the ledge.
Between Caging the Zealot and Harsh Reality. Rappel the route to descend. Mid route rappel anchors exist at the 8th bolt. I was able to lower completely with a 70M rope.
12 bolts and chains
|By Mary Ellen Man|
From: Midvale, UT
Nov 3, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
My Wife and I climbed this on 10/20/2011 and enjoyed it very much. It was not in the guide book so we just jumbed on it. I thought it was a little easier that 10b if you are tall (9+/10a) but my wife who is shorter than me will agree with the 10b rating.
From: Orem, UT
Nov 13, 2011
Most of the routes listed on this wall are a bit easier than what is listed for them. I originally listed this as .10b because that was the information given out at the local climbing shop. This one felt right in the neighborhood so I left it as it was given. But yeah, overall most of the routes are easier that what is listed.
From: Denver, CO
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This route was a blast. A good change from "Conditional Bliss" and "Caging the Zealot". The bulge halfway up was quite fun. My wife, also very short 5'3" actually thought it wasn't too bad. So I don't think height is a factor in making this harder or easier.
I think this is about on par with Conditional Bliss. 5.10a for sure. Not a 5.9+.
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
That first bolt is definitely up there, but you can clip the first bolt of Harsh Reality with a long runner. There's also another funky run out from the Mid-anchors to the next bolt, which is up and right, over the roof. A #1 or 2 Camalot would've been nice. Fun moves through the first bulge!