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 ADVANCED
Crack Land
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ancient Fright S 
Ancient Light T,S 
Ancient Sight T 
Art Of War, The S 
Blade T 
Crack Love T 
Crack Love II T 
Crack Love III T 
Enemy Within, The T 
Ghost Ship T 
Mystery Ship S 
Mystery Tour T 
Resurrection T 
Ship of Fools T 
Thus Us T 
War Horse T,S 

Mystery Tour 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, July 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: Not Winter
Page Views: 1,404
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Richard on the FA of the spectacular dihedral of M...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The 3 crack climbs, Mystery Ship, Ship of Fools, & Mystery Tour (aka Crack Land Dihedral) begin from a common system and branch to individual lines after the first 30 feet. Begin about 10 feet left of Mystery Ship and follow vague, blocky terrain to where the lines diverge (5.6, gear to 1 inch, 30 feet). All 3 lines top out at the belay tree for Dragon Slayer. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings. Extensive cleaning and trail work have been done to provide access to these excellent crack climbs.

These routes are located on the NW side of the Third Tier of Avalon just left of Mystery Ship. This is actually the far right side of the NE Face, perhaps 100 feet right of Ancient Light.

Tape up for the Mystery Tour. Begin as for the previous two routes, but stay right and gain a stance beneath a magnificent, left-facing dihedral with a perfect crack. Jam to the top of the dihedral, then step left and climb the final crack for Ship of Fools. Hands, fists and arm bars. Bitchin'.


Location 

Mystery Tour is the right of 3 cracks at the far right side of the Crack Land. Begin 10 feet left of Mystery Ship.


Protection 

Mostly cams from 1 inch to 4 inches. A 5-inch piece can be placed in a short offwidth section. Lower off or rappel 90 feet from slings with rings around a good tree.



Photos of Mystery Tour Slideshow Add Photo
Crack Land as viewed from the trail that runs along beneath the Northeast Face, Third Tier of Avalon.
BETA PHOTO: Crack Land as viewed from the trail that runs alon...
Enjoying the awesome crack.
Enjoying the awesome crack.
Comments on Mystery Tour Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Better gear and better moves than it appears from the ground. A fun climb overall. Too bad the lower angle stuff at the bottom is not more like the top corner. No wide gear necessary, despite appearances.

By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Jul 1, 2008

I hauled up several boat anchors because it looked wide from the ground, but never placed the really big stuff. Some #3 Camalots and a couple #2 Camalots would sew the climb up.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 1, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A nice, physical corner crack -- too bad it's not longer. Two #2 Camalots and two #3 Camalots protect the widest sections well -- no need for anything larger. Smaller gear useful below and above the wide part. No need to tape up -- the crack isn't too rough.

Belay at the tree at the top and bring your partner up. Then do Dragon Fly and Dragon Slayer which start at this tree.

Thanks to Richard and Pebby for their hard work to open up these lines.

By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 16, 2012

Great line especially of you stay in the crack. Wish it was longer. I brought a #4 and used it, but it is not necessary. 2 #3s would be nice though.

Prod.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I replaced the webbing on the descent tree on 5-12-13.

By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route! Steep dihedral with jugs to start and then lower angle perfect hands to the top. This is also a great climb for a hot summer day, as the crack is shaded and blows out cool air and making you never want to return to the ground!

Webbing and rapide link on tree still in good condition.