While lowering off of Mushroom People, I looked left. What a line! Why wasn't it in the guidebook!? I looked for anchors up top, but there weren't any. Half way up I noticed an ancient piece of tat hanging from the ceiling. Of course. Too obvious. Crap! Stiffed for the FA once again...
Follow runout boulder problem start(10c R) up and left to a left facing flake and a plated face to a ledge. Head straight up finger crack/seam and either finish at the tat(replace or put in some anchors?); or do like I did and traverse(9R) to Mushrooms Anchors to rap. In between the top of both routes is a HUGE 10' x 10' hueco.
standard to 2"
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 12, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
I had the same experience as Jer a few years ago, and again this year.The start is probably 10- and is quite OK with a good spotter. From there, the pro is quite good for the rest of the route, which is mostly 5.moderate (5.7?) and never harder than 5.9 for it's remainder. It protects quite well.
Very fun and fine line. Shocking that it's still not in the book (new Uriosite release).