This crag is known to the locals as Echo Canyon. It was originally called "The Scoop". It is about 200' tall, 2,000' long, and 45 degrees overhanging in parts. The entire crag and access to it are in the Roosevelt National Forest.
There are several bolted routes that appear to be in the 5.10-5.13 range. There are several more routes that could still be developed, along with potential for some traditional/mixed lines in the 5.6-5.11 range.
From Boulder, drive South 10 miles or from Golden, drive north on CO 93, and go West on Coal Creek Canyon Road (CO Hwy 72). Go 11 miles to the Wondervu Cafe on the left. From the cafe, drive 0.9 miles further West on CO Hwy 72, and park on the right side of the road at a left switchback.
From here hike uphill for about 100 feet and follow a now well worn trail East for about 10 minutes until you see the huge overhanging wall across the valley on the left. Follow a less worn trail North directly to it.
Eds. There have been some reports of slash tires from the locals.
This crag and access to it are in the Roosevelt National Forest. The surrounding neighbors have 1-2 acre lots, none of which abut the trail or crag itself. There are many offshoot trails that lead to private property, which is why a clearly marked trail is important here. The pink flagging you see are survey markers for the Gross Reservoir expansion project. Whether Denver water has intentions of buying this property, I don't know, but until then it is still public land. This is clearly marked at the road and throughout the forest. These are also verifiable facts open to the public on Boulder and Gilpin county's websites:
You need to take this posting of this website, Chris Harkness. You have done a real disservice to this area's climbers, by posting a crag that you know nothing about its name or routes. I know the cliff & route names, but I am not putting them on this website & nobody that visited here before you did either. I did not establish the 5 (not 15) bolted climbed, but I know who did. It should be up to them to decide when to first publish their climbs, not other climbers. The reason they haven't reported this crag is because the access is very fragile. Secondly, you have done the entire climbing community a great disservice by painting hundreds of ugly blue dots on trees & rocks to mark the trail. Ever heard of a cairn? Now the access is really threatened. I know someone who was told to leave because they were trespassing or their car would be towed. Now pink ribbons tied around trees appear to be survey markers. Most of the trail is on National Forest land, but some of it appears to be on private property. I am assuming you painted these blue dots, because they weren't there in Summer 2013. You seem to want to advertise these crag. No climber I know would stoop so low! I first found my way to the crag with very little info. The best policy here is to keep a low profile! One of the equippers had his tires slashed while bolting. Some of the residents don't like climbers coming to the crag. There are homes 500 ft. away, & an old guy named Tony is very angry. Another couple has expressed concern of bolts damaging the rock but don't mind climbers visiting the crag. Therefore, climbers have refrained from bolting more routes.
Mark, Since you have not responded to the pm I sent you, I'll post my response here. I don't mean to step on your (or your friends') toes by posting this crag. As a Wondervu local, it's a bit of a drive for me to get to any good climbing, so having this in my backyard has been a wonderful find for me. Needless to say, keeping access to this crag open is very important to me. My intention by posting it is to share this beautiful spot with other locals and to gather information on it. It seems to me that this is the whole point of having a venue like mountainproject. If I felt that this crag or access to it was fragile, I wouldn't have posted it.
I spent a year researching the area before posting it and have had the chance to speak with many of the neighbors surrounding the crag who have all seemed friendly toward climbers. I occasionally take groups of kids over there to climb and hike, and one neighbor commented that he was happy to see us over there. Another neighbor welcomed me to cut through their property if I would like. I can't imagine what neighbor of mine would have slashed someone's tires or have been so angry but certainly no one I have come across.
Regarding private property: this crag and access to it are in the Roosevelt National Forest. The surrounding neighbors have 1-2 acre lots, none of which abut the trail or crag itself. There are many offshoot trails that lead to private property, which is why a clearly marked trail is important here. The pink flagging you see are survey markers for the Gross Reservoir expansion project. Whether Denver water has intentions of buying this property, I don't know, but until then it is still public land. This is clearly marked at the road and throughout the forest. These are also verifiable facts open to the public on Boulder and Gilpin County's websites:
It's great to know that there's a true Wondervue local enjoying those routes and getting to know some of the neighbors. As you found through your research, it is on public land and the access is too. We did have trouble some years ago with one of the locals, a guy who seemed to be late 40s or 50s, and he got really bent out of shape, especially when the drill came out. Everyone else was friendly, but the one guy was not a reasonable person to deal with and seemed to have a reputation with the locals. Hopefully he moved away or something.
We originally called the crag The Scoop, but I went there first with Will and let him take the lead on the naming etc. The mixed route out the steepest part on the left was done by Matt Samet & seemed to be somewhere mid-5.13. From there, the routes are 12a, 12b or so, 11d, then 12c (The Tossilator - I had to dyno the crux). There may be some other trad or even newer routes.
I think the crag has a great ambience in the summer with the late evening sun making it feel like the Maine seacoast or somewhere in the far north. There are other crags in Coal Creek Canyon with tricky access, & it may be good to keep that in mind before posting. I'm a canyon dweller too, Blue Mountain, and will hopefully bump into you up there sometime.
Thank you for posting some info on the area. I appreciate your contributions to the area and am sorry you've had to deal with a nasty neighbor up here. Some people just don't want to share (what's not even theirs to share in the first place), or feel the need to impose their values on others through reprehensible means. This has been a favorite destination for the family and I, even if we're not climbing. I hope to see you out there sometime.
Chris's info is very misleading. The crag is only 100-120 ft tall & probably not a half mile long. There are not 15 bolted climbs, only 5 (4 sport & one mixed)! Two routes share the same start to 6th bolt. So there is not enough independent climbs to keep more than 2-3 parties busy. Three parties would be a crowd. This is another reason this post needs to go. Chris has admitted to me now in an email to painting the disgusting blue dots on hundreds of trees & rocks. I believe that is against the Forest Service regulations for defacing public land. It sure compromises a beautiful place. Perhaps he should be fined! I would suggest that if he wants to undo the damage that he paint over his bright blue paint with a color that best matches the trees & rock. Finally, as Chris knows, I did respond to his emails that we exchanged, but I don't think he really gets it.