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Transformer Corridor
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Chomping at the Bit T,S 
Dynamo Hum S 
Heat Wave T,S 
Just a Pretty Day T 
Live Wire T,S 
Mystery Bolter S 
Short Circuit T,S 
Vibrator T,S 

Mystery Bolter 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Cichon, 1989
Page Views: 2,607
Submitted By: John Bradford on Apr 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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Sandy relaxing between thin parts


This route is technically on the east side of Bumblie Rock, but in the Transformer Corridor. Starts in the chimney and is long with a chimney start that can be a bit tricky. Lots of dishes and rounded knobs, and bolts, lots of bolts. 2 ropes for the rap.


All Bolts and chain anchors. Lts and lots of bolts!

Photos of Mystery Bolter Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A 70m rope will just work on Mystery Bolter.
A 70m rope will just work on Mystery Bolter.

Comments on Mystery Bolter Add Comment
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By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2008

Really fun route. Has a tricky start for which you might want a bit of pro. The start is definitely the crux! From then on, solid friction cruising.
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Jun 9, 2008

Bolts are pretty spaced out, you can barely lower off with a 70m rope.
By ColinP
Sep 7, 2009

This is a beautiful friction route. Getting off the ground is the crux. The first bolt is extremely high, but the climbing in the chimney is easy. We did two raps with a 60M rope. There's some webbing/rap ring 2/3 of the way up the climb around a hole in the rock near the gully.
By Brian G
Jul 7, 2010

Just climbed this route and the webbing and rap rings mentioned are now gone. We used a 70m rope and had about 1-2 meters left after being lowered. Fun route with a bouldery, finger long start.
By Buddy
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 25, 2012

Great rock with scenic views at the top. The start is the most challenging part. Lowered off with no problems using a 70m rope.
By S.Lee
Oct 14, 2013

Agreed that the first few moves are the hardest, after that its solid 5.9 climbing. A few exposed friction moves up top.
By Dan Mathews
Sep 26, 2014

For what it is worth, I did not think the beginning of the climb was the crux or particularly difficult. The first bolt is high though. However, I thought several sections of face climbing were more difficult and quite runout. The bolts are 20 feet apart in spots and the rock is a bit sandy. I thought it was hard and intimidating for a 5.9, at least compared to the other 9s and 10s I did that week.
By Idaho Bob
From: McCall, ID
Jun 26, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you extend your rappel device a 70m works fine.

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