This route is technically on the east side of Bumblie Rock, but in the Transformer Corridor. Starts in the chimney and is long with a chimney start that can be a bit tricky. Lots of dishes and rounded knobs, and bolts, lots of bolts. 2 ropes for the rap.
All Bolts and chain anchors. Lts and lots of bolts!
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2008
Really fun route. Has a tricky start for which you might want a bit of pro. The start is definitely the crux! From then on, solid friction cruising.
|By David Shiembob|
From: slc, ut
Jun 9, 2008
Bolts are pretty spaced out, you can barely lower off with a 70m rope.
Sep 7, 2009
This is a beautiful friction route. Getting off the ground is the crux. The first bolt is extremely high, but the climbing in the chimney is easy. We did two raps with a 60M rope. There's some webbing/rap ring 2/3 of the way up the climb around a hole in the rock near the gully.
|By Brian G|
Jul 7, 2010
Just climbed this route and the webbing and rap rings mentioned are now gone. We used a 70m rope and had about 1-2 meters left after being lowered. Fun route with a bouldery, finger long start.
Jun 25, 2012
Great rock with scenic views at the top. The start is the most challenging part. Lowered off with no problems using a 70m rope.
Oct 14, 2013
Agreed that the first few moves are the hardest, after that its solid 5.9 climbing. A few exposed friction moves up top but keep your cool and stay smooth and you'll be fine.