Myrrh 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Brandon Thau, 1996 (?) |
| Submitted By: | jayk g on Mar 29, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: Myrrh (5.11b), Frustration Creek
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Description Fun short climb, the crux is at the 3rd bolt and getting past it. Once you mantel the first face watch out for the Yucca bush its out for blood. If you choose to do this route bring your best belay the rope seems to be in the way of your fall line and needs to move as you do.
Location The first bolted route when you arrive at Frustration behind the oak tree on your left as you drop down into the catch area. This route is great for sunny days as it is under a tree and well protected from the sun. Start at bottom and end at top! Have fun! (Just right of Frankincense).
Protection 5 bolts, anchors w/ chains at the top
By tom donnelly
Jun 22, 2010
| Hmm, I must have been missing something if the crux is at the 3rd bolt. I thought it was plenty hard just from the 1st to second bolt, & had to hangdog. |
By Jeff Botimer
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b
| I agree. While the first 3+ bolts are all similar difficulty, I agree that the crux is probably between the first and second. |
By kennoyce
From: Clearfield, UT
Sep 29, 2012
rating: 5.11b
| This route is like Three Kings on steroids. Same kind of balancy moves on a vertical slab with small sharp holds. I felt that the crux was right at the second bolt. The moves up to the second weren't too bad, I had to hang on the second to figure out the moves, hung on the third again because the rock was hard to read, but once I could see the holds, the moves past the third bolt weren't too bad either.
I felt that this would be a very hard route to onsight because the rock was so hard to read, but now that I know the moves I don't think the redpoint will be too hard. |
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