Myopic 5.11-
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| Type: | Sport, 35 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | JSt,EFR,'06 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Mar 7, 2006 |
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Not long in length but it ain't no walk in the par...
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Description Interesting crux.
Location This route is on the upper left end of The Griddle. The route like many here is short but packs a lot of climbing in a short distance.
Protection Bolts
By Scott Tucker From: Tucson, AZ Feb 4, 2007 rating: 5.11-
| The anchors on this climb seem to be missing in action. There are bolts but no hangers or chains. You can easily use the anchors on Sight Unseen to the left. But it's nice to know this before, say, leading Myopic while someone else is toproping Blinded by the Light. |
By Jimbo Feb 7, 2007
| These two routes do share the same anchors. Which you should have been able to see from the ground. Besides it's not too hard to set two ropes on one set of anchors. However, if you want to go out and drill a seperate anchor for Myopic, feel free. |
By 1Eric Rhicard Jan 8, 2011
| Did this again today and found it more fun than I remember. Still just worth doing and the finger locks are fun. |
By Kemper Brightman From: Tucson, AZ Jan 12, 2013
| After doing this route a few times, I've begun to wonder about a more direct line through the bottom to the first bulge. Instead of starting left like the climb currently does, this line would head directly over the first bulge using a left facing rail and a pocket with good opposing feet and a few crimps. It would definitely need cleaning, but it seems like it could add some more fun moves close to the grade. Probably more work than it's worth, since the climb is fun as is, but i though I'd throw it out there any way in case others had seen the same thing. |
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