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 ADVANCED
The Elephant's Perch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Astro Elephant T 
Chasing the Dragon T 
Direct Beckey T 
Divine Guidance T 
Fine Line, The T 
Mountaineer's Route T 
Myopia T 
Original Beckey T 
Sideline T 
Splittgerber-March Direct T 
Sunrise Book T 
Trunkline T 
Unknown T 
Wendy T 

Myopia 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: summer
Page Views: 8,330
Submitted By: Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Awesome climbing at the Perch.

Description 

Beautiful direct corner system up a steep clean wall. A one move technical crux, followed by a sustained stemming pitch and several other moderate 5.10 pitches.


Location 

left side of the South face


Protection 

standard rack



Photos of Myopia Slideshow Add Photo
topo by Reid Dowdle, with some edits
BETA PHOTO: topo by Reid Dowdle, with some edits
Beginning the crux 3rd pitch
Beginning the crux 3rd pitch
Elephant's Perch - South Face <br /> <br />8. Lost Horizons 5.10 A2+  <br />7. The Seagull 5.10 A3  <br />6. King's Highway 5.9 A3  <br />5. Myopia 5.11a ***  <br />4. Divine Guidance 5.11- *  <br />3a. Elephant's Eye Var. 5.10+ A3  <br />3. Elephant's Eye 5.10+ A3  <br />2. Astro Elephant 5.10a **  <br />2.A. Sideline Variation 5.9  <br />1. Sunrise Book 5.12a or 5.10a A1 **  <br />
BETA PHOTO: Elephant's Perch - South Face

8. Lost Horizons 5....
Great layback after the crux
Great layback after the crux
Approaching the very disappointing thin seem on the second pitch
Approaching the very disappointing thin seem on th...
Great stemming on the 4th pitch!
Great stemming on the 4th pitch!
This route can get very chilly in the wind and shade
This route can get very chilly in the wind and sha...
Looking up Myopia
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Myopia
Comments on Myopia Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 15, 2014
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
May 31, 2008

I took the biggest whipper of my life on this thing last summer. I found all of the 5.10 pitches to be very sustained and difficult. Absolutely incredible route though, just be ready for a mouthful of very solid .10 climbing. It generally protected well, but there were some very thin stemming and laybacking sections where gear was hard to come by and/or place. I have heard repeatedly since I did it that it has a serious reputation, more so than the Fine Line.

I guess these are all just excuses for saying "I got my ass kicked". Hopefully I'll do it again someday, and I'll feel solid. In the meantime, it's burned into my head as one of my most memorable climbs ever.

By dave bingham
Apr 9, 2010

.. Brilliant, with lots of sustained 5.10+ climbing. Admin: Please change the bogus "one move" beta on the crux pitch description. Most folks will find things a bit more challenging than that implies.

By Stu Ritchie
From: Denver
Aug 2, 2010

Myopia is an awesome and very sustained Perch classic! Be prepared to "take off the gloves" so to speak!

By Monica Jones
From: CO
Aug 19, 2010

I found the gear to be very thought provoking on numerous occasions. I fell at the top of the 10d pitch after the crux on a grey TCU that somehow managed to hold my fall by two lobes that had opened up to make an apparently pretty solid nut placement. Spooky. The crux has fixed nuts though which makes it really doable, found this to be true on many of the harder grades here. Beautiful.

By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Sustained, beautiful, engaging. Do it now.

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2011

The single best open book fingers / stemming route I have ever done in the world. Pitches of solid, clean, 5.10 tips. Wish it went 10 more pitches. Loved it.

By Bob Graham
Sep 10, 2011

This is an outstanding route with some nice technical climbing and good pro. There is a lot of stemming and liebacking after the crux with some wild 5.9 pitches up high.

By Amir
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 1, 2012

This is a more serious route than Fine Line, but it is safe. Good pro, but not anywhere you want it. Be prepared to climb above small, but good gear. Incredible from beginning to end.

By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This line made me rethink the routes I give 4 stars on this site. Best alpine rock route to date- for us at least. Not sure it sees the traffic it deserves- found 2 "fixed" nuts above the crux pitch that were easily cleaned, and though the ferry driver said multiple parties were getting on it when we took the boat across the lake, nobody else did all weekend. So may not need the alpine start to be first to the cliff on this one.
Gear is there and it's safe for the competent leader, but I'd guess a party looking for a slightly harder Beckey or Fine Line will find this one a bit more full value. We did Fine Line the next day- excellent route but not heady at all- same for Beckey last year.
As for the crux pitch, felt mid .11, vs. .11+/12a move for first pitch of Fine Line. The .10 pitches felt accurate, except the 10- on the first real pitch felt soft and the 10- crack switch up higher was over marginal placements.
This route is probably not for the fledgling 5.10 leader - as others indicate placements can be thin at times and tough to place.
Rack: 2 sets offset brassies and nuts, 1 grey metolius, 2 purple metolius, 3 each blue and yellow metolius, 1 orange metolius, and doubles 0.5-#3 camalot was optimal for us. We debated bringing the second #3 and were glad we did. Get after it!

By James Yates
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 7, 2012

This superb route just blew Serenity/Sons of Yesterday out of the water for my favorite climb ever. I honestly don't know if I will ever do a better climb (I hope there is a better line out there... maybe positive vibrations, maybe sunshine crack... we'll see). Myopia is the total package... It is isolated/remote, amazing setting, sustained difficulty, perfect rock, and completely crowd free. Four stars are not even enough to do this climb justice. If Myopia is the four star standard, I think the Fine Line only deserves three. That being said, the fine line is a four star climb just not as good as myopia.
This line is incredibly sustained and perfectly clean. After the first couple easy pitches the in-your-face hard 5.10 starts and does not end for many hundreds of feet. Pitch 3 is for sure the technical crux, and pitch 4 is the endurance/sustained crux. As already mentioned, be prepared to do some hard 10+ climbing above small gear on many occasions. Also, keep in mind that there are no fixed anchors on this climb, so be cautious not to use all of your small gear or you wont have enough to build your anchor.
This climb would be dangerous for a 5.10 leader, as many placements are made blindly from sustained liebacks. Be confident at the grade and go get'er done.....AMAZING!

By mtnsoceans
From: Ivins, Utah
Oct 26, 2012

Tom Boley and I climbed this route some time back in the late '80s or so, and I remember it being very very sustained 10+ and brilliant climbing pretty much to the top. We were both sufficiently knackered, and extremely pleased with the quality of climbing and stone. I look forward to returning for more. The Perch and The Hulk are two of the best alpine granite walls that I have ever enjoyed. Cheers!

By Brian Fedigan
From: Boise, ID
Aug 4, 2013

This is a great route one of my favorites at the Perch. It is very sustained. Second pitch shows you belaying from a pin and bolts. A better belay is above the pin (about 10 feet) on a small ledge. Only one fixed nut remains at the crux. Also, look for alternative belay for pitch four than what is on the topo. The last pitch before you enter the alcove (pitch 8) does not have a rating. It looks easier than it is, probably pretty solid 5.9. The gear is excellent on this route and the climbing is solid 5.10.

By L Stern
From: Golden, CO
Aug 16, 2013

Pitch for pitch, I thought Myopia was more sustained than Fine Line and the Direct Beckey. My favorite of the three (except the belay ledges weren't nearly as cushy as the other two routes).

By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 15, 2014

I'll add some info, having just climbed this a week ago and these were the pitches I wouldn't of minded having some extra beta for...

p2 - Head up a hand crack and gain the headwall. Climb the headwall via finger sized cracks and some hollow flakes. Tread lightly here! There was a very obvious right traverse that I took here to gain the chimney on the right. The crack going straight up looked like it became a seam. After traversing right you gain the chimney, which quickly becomes smaller at a roof. Surmount this roof (a bit burly) and then trend left to a good ledge with a piton. I set the belay about 10' higher.

p4/p5 -Stem and layback up the corner until an obvious crux around a bulge. After the crux, you arrive at a pretty decent stance, but I kept going as it seemed to short. I ended up setting the belay after a small bulge about 50' higher. This was incredibly uncomfortable and a bit sketchy for starting the next pitch. I would advise either linking p4 and p5 (LOTS of small gear needed!) or just set your belay for p4 right after the crux.