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My Wife's Pajamas 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 732
Submitted By: Matt Westlake on May 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Getting ready to clean gear on top rope. Lead by K...

Description 

Another fun moderate in the spirit of Easy Hard and Head Jam and should be on the list of all folks tackling those routes.

Slightly tricky start getting established on the slab then a casual romp to the crux on the upper headwall.

Either meander and follow the path of least resistance+max pro or tackle a series of small overhangs directly until you reach the upper headwall - which can also be a nice TR afterward if you want a little added value. Get pro high in the arching crack out right and go STRAIGHT UP the vertical face. (following the right arching crack is a more difficult variation that takes you out right of the topout rap station) Nice exposure and some cool moves here! Be patient and scope out the holds and it'll make sense at 5.6 although it can be a bit intimidating for folks typically leading the easier grades.

Watch your fall consequence on the low angle slab.

Great way to get to the Meat Puppet crag - after topping out, hike directly up and go left when you hit the trail at the cliff wall and you'll be deposited at the base of Meat Puppet. Be careful to note the trail back as it's less obvious on the return trip if you plan to rap back down here rather than hike the gully.

Location 

From the main Amphitheater area (with Golden Earring, etc) this is slightly up the trail in the Sentinel Buttress direction just past the little amphitheater. Look for a clean slab with a small dead tree at the base, angled just right for leaning against. A short distance further up trail you'll run across the impressive Bubbalicious arete.

Protection 

Mostly smaller gear to start and save a couple BD C4 #1,2 sized pieces for higher up. Rap station on tree at the top.


Photos of My Wife's Pajamas Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Travis belaying me through the upper half of the r...
Travis belaying me through the upper half of the r...
Rock Climbing Photo: Danielle climbing My Wife's Pajamas. The rock was ...
Danielle climbing My Wife's Pajamas. The rock was ...

Comments on My Wife's Pajamas Add Comment
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By Jerel
Sep 6, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The start was tougher than 5.6, mainly because the lower section is wet and slippery. It is a decent warm-up and can be made easier/harder by going right or left (there is not an obvious, continuous crack to follow), but there were cobwebs and bugs the whole way (more than other routes in the area).
By Matt Westlake
Sep 8, 2014

Late summer it's going to feel a bit slimy and buggy, particularly with all the rain lately. On a day with better conditions you'll find the slickness and bugs more in check.

There is also a sort of hidden jug hold that makes getting underway a bit easier, then it's just a matter of standing up on a thin ledge. It can be a bit unnerving trusting the flat slopey ledges that serve as holds for most of the beginning when it's wet or really humid. I don't find this much harder than Easy Hard, and in some ways quite a bit easier than Head Jam.
By Russ Keane
Jul 2, 2016

In my opinion this climb is very difficult. I will go ahead and call it a sandbag at 5.6, and know that I don't say that with frequency. This is most certainly a 5.7 climb. The section from the bottom of the crack, heading straight up to the anchor, is rather complicated and steep. When you gain the large horizontal, but need to go left, the feet are complete crap, and you are screwed. It's all slabbiness and air/space below. Then while getting pumped and balling up to move up and get the hell out of that position, you are looking for something along the lines of your typical Moore's 5.6 bail-out hand hold, but no... awkward grabs, hanging on for dear life, (hopefully you had the right piece for the horizontal, and walked it over, or else you are now up a creek). The necessary sequence here with the feet and with the hands is pretty ballsy and a bit insecure and technical.

It's a cool climb. Has a different feel than the other stuff at Moore's at that grade, as best I can tell.
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jul 5, 2016

Russ, I would say try this climb again, but do not follow the crack near the top. That way is 5.8ish and gets you pumped. Staying on the face to the left is thinner, but also less steep and with positive holds. That is the 5.6 way. I went up the crack my first time and was confused at the rating as well.

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