My Wife's Pajamas
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Travis belaying me through the upper half of the r...
Another fun moderate in the spirit of Easy Hard and Head Jam and should be on the list of all folks tackling those routes.
Slightly tricky start getting established on the slab then a casual romp to the crux on the upper headwall.
Either meander and follow the path of least resistance+max pro or tackle a series of small overhangs directly until you reach the upper headwall - which can also be a nice TR afterward if you want a little added value. Get pro high in the arching crack out right and go STRAIGHT UP the vertical face. (following the right arching crack is a more difficult variation that takes you out right of the topout rap station) Nice exposure and some cool moves here! Be patient and scope out the holds and it'll make sense at 5.6 although it can be a bit intimidating for folks typically leading the easier grades.
Watch your fall consequence on the low angle slab.
Great way to get to the Meat Puppet crag - after topping out, hike directly up and go left when you hit the trail at the cliff wall and you'll be deposited at the base of Meat Puppet. Be careful to note the trail back as it's less obvious on the return trip if you plan to rap back down here rather than hike the gully.
From the main Amphitheater area (with Golden Earring, etc) this is slightly up the trail in the Sentinel Buttress direction just past the little amphitheater. Look for a clean slab with a small dead tree at the base, angled just right for leaning against. A short distance further up trail you'll run across the impressive Bubbalicious arete.
Mostly smaller gear to start and save a couple BD C4 #1,2 sized pieces for higher up. Rap station on tree at the top.
Sep 6, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The start was tougher than 5.6, mainly because the lower section is wet and slippery. It is a decent warm-up and can be made easier/harder by going right or left (there is not an obvious, continuous crack to follow), but there were cobwebs and bugs the whole way (more than other routes in the area).
By Matt Westlake
Sep 8, 2014
Late summer it's going to feel a bit slimy and buggy, particularly with all the rain lately. On a day with better conditions you'll find the slickness and bugs more in check.
There is also a sort of hidden jug hold that makes getting underway a bit easier, then it's just a matter of standing up on a thin ledge. It can be a bit unnerving trusting the flat slopey ledges that serve as holds for most of the beginning when it's wet or really humid. I don't find this much harder than Easy Hard, and in some ways quite a bit easier than Head Jam.