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Beer Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Pound of Prevention T 
Beer Wench S 
Bubbaweiser S 
Celebration Ale S 
Cerveza Verde S 
Cirrhosis of the Leader S 
Daisy Cutter S 
Delerium Tremors S 
Doo-Wah Woof T 
Fred Sandstone Flake T 
Gilded Otter S 
Micro Brew S 
My Sister Makes Cluster Bombs S 
Near Beer S 
Spatenweiss S 
St. Pauli Girl S 
Thank God I'm Bubbafied! T 
Werewolf T 

My Sister Makes Cluster Bombs 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Eric Horst, Rick Thompson, Bob Rentka
Page Views: 372
Submitted By: Befta on Nov 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

The initial blast is powerful, but don't let your guard down on the moves above. Fortunately you can fully rest up on the ledge before engaging the small, crescent-shaped corner
(description from Mike William's guidebook)

Location 

it is the second bolt line after the air conditioned chimney. Daisy Cutter is left line of bolts.

Protection 

5 bolts, bolt anchor


Comments on My Sister Makes Cluster Bombs Add Comment
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By Dylan Randall
From: Denville, NJ
May 17, 2015

Boulder problem off the deck felt no easier than V5 IMO....

...11c?
By BrianWS
May 19, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

It's thin, but it goes well below V5... did this one before I climbed other 12s at the New.

The rest of the climbing is alright. Certainly not a classic, but definitely not deserving of a "bomb" rating.
By Dylan Randall
From: Denville, NJ
Feb 11, 2016

Brian,

The "bomb" rating came from the reachy, poor foot boulder problem at the start, to consistent pulling on cobwebs and holds littered with dirt. Perhaps the climb was slightly out of season when I decided to get on it, i'll give it another shot next time I'm down in the gorge.

As for the start, I had come from the boulder problem of Narcissus Direct and felt that was significantly easier. Perhaps height dependent? (I'm 5'7)

I would definitely walk past this climb if its neighbors to the right in the Beer Walls proper weren't swamped with crowds.
By BrianWS
Feb 16, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I gave the route a good sweeping the first burn and got it second go. Definitely helped, as did November temps. I remember the start required some long moves between small holds, but it went at my height (5'6).
Not sure you can make a fair comparison between narcissus direct and this route - one has powerful moves between small positive holds while the other is basically a slab.

Regardless, it probably isn't worth a repeat or further effort. Why would anybody want to go back to beer wall in the first place? Although I thought the route was ok, I wouldn't go back just for it alone.
By Stephenmontgomery
From: Maryland
Jul 24, 2016

Bold moves in near the bottom, a stick clip and attentive spotter is prudent in order to avoid a twisted ankle

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