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My Secret Garden

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Beauty T 
Bettie Page T 
Brazilian Wax Job T 
Desert Landscape T 
Golddigger T 
Gutter Slut T 
Hurts So Good T 
Jailbait T 
Little Mutt T 
Lolita T 
Milla T 
Night Moves T 
Plaid Skirts T 
Plan B T 
Pocket Cougar T 
Rawdawgin T 
Shady Lady T 
Turning Tricks T 
Twiggy T 
Vixen T 

My Secret Garden Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 2,503
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on Jan 18, 2011
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Left Side

The beautiful face to the right of an arching right facing dihedral.

Turning Tricks 5.10 quality
Night Moves 5.10 quality
Shady Lady 5.9
Hurts So Good 5.11- quality

Middle Section

A multipart section downhill of a large evergreen tree at the end of a ledge.

Milla 5.8-
Twiggy 5.8

Routes located above the small cave.

Plaid Skirts 5.7+ quality
American Beauty 5.8 quality

Routes located slightly downhill from the cave.

Lolita  5.6+ quality
Little Mutt  5.6

Routes located on rock at a right angle to the previous climbs.

Vixen 5.7
Plan B 5.11- quality
Bettie Page 5.9

Right Section

The  first rock found when approaching the crag.

Desert Landscape 5.11 quality
Gutter Slut 5.8+
Brazilian Wax Job 5.9
Pocket Cougar 5.11- quality
Rawdawgin 5.11- R quality
Jailbait 5.10+
Golddigger 5.11b/c quality

Getting There 

This climbing area is located uphill and north of the Fin. Walk down the La Luz trail and cross the talus above the Fin (north & east), cross the old La Luz Trail and find the ridge of rock. This rock, averaging perhaps 170 feet in height, is also downhill and right of Rat’s Rock. Completed routes are noted left to right. One 60m rope is adequate for all the raps from bolted anchors and chains. There are no sport routes, all routes require gear. All bolts were hand drilled, painted and kept to a safe minimum.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.7 miles from here

20 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in My Secret Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for My Secret Garden:
American Beauty   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 130'   
Turning Tricks   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 95'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in My Secret Garden

Featured Route For My Secret Garden
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Plan B

Plan B 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : My Secret Garden
Quality. (1st) Climb the right to left dihedral then left and up to an anchor. (2nd) Traverse left and up into a crack which wanders to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of My Secret Garden Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: My Secret Garden overview.  Photo by John Kear.
BETA PHOTO: My Secret Garden overview. Photo by John Kear.
Rock Climbing Photo: Detail of My Secret Garden--photo by Jerry Inman
BETA PHOTO: Detail of My Secret Garden--photo by Jerry Inman
Rock Climbing Photo: My Secret Garden from the Fin
BETA PHOTO: My Secret Garden from the Fin

Comments on My Secret Garden Add Comment
Show which comments
By Timothy Henley
Feb 3, 2011
This is a really great area, and it is truly not a sport area!! Lots of quality routes however there is some loose rock, especially at the top. I hope people don't go here to much!!

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