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A fairly fun gear route in a location with great views and exposure. Requires a bit of mildly unnerving climbing though crumbly quartzite before and after the crack.
This could be done as one or two pitches (or even three, although that'd be kind of silly).
Start from either the end of the second pitch of Lord of the Slings or the end of Wizardly Way. Walk across and climb up to the first bolt at the bottom of the final headwall and clip it with a double-length sling. Head up and left, following a line of four bolts though crumbly, white and yellowish quartzite. After getting past a sharp horn you'll reach a set of ring anchors. You can stop here, or, more likely, continue up to the crack proper.
Follow the crack, placing protection as needed while climbing up the corner (mostly stemming). At the top of the corner head a bit left and up to some chain anchors. Once again, you can stop here, or continue up.
There are three more bolts leading through some truly frightening, broken quartzite. Be careful what you grab. There is a location or two for supplemental protection that might make you feel a little better.
At the top of the buttress on a flat ledge you'll find two bolts for an anchor.
On the left side of the main Trilogy headwall, this line follows the corner up past the column that sticks out from the headwall.
If done as one pitch: 9 bolts, cams equivalent to C4 #.75 through #4. Doubles in #3 and #4 might be nice. Two-bolt anchor on top.
BETA PHOTO: A crappy picture of the corner crack, taken from t...
BETA PHOTO: The crack that is My Precious.
|By Tristan Higbee|
May 30, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
I was pleasantly surprised by this route, and I'll probably do it again. When I did it, I did it in two pitches, belaying at the small ledge just before the crack proper. Rope drag was getting bad so I figured I'd stop.
In the crack, I just remember thinking that a couple #4s would have been great, but all I had was a #3 and I survived. There are smaller horizontal cracks that you can get gear in if you don't have anything bigger.
|By Darren Knezek|
May 30, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Just like Tristan, I enjoyed this climb also. Was really surprised on how good the rock was for this pitch. Pretty and quite water-worn. I thought that this pitch was really worth bringing a gear rack.
|By Alex Marsden|
Aug 31, 2013
Pretty chossy and pretty rope draggy if that is a word. I would suggest doing a walk off. We got our rope stuck twice and did a little damage to the sheath. Fun climb but definitely walk off.