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 ADVANCED
The Shire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Audie S 
Bulldozer S 
G-Man, The S 
K.S.B. S 
Miranda Rayne S 
My Name is Earl S 
Pee-Wee S 
Significant Other S 
Unsorted Routes:

My Name is Earl 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Josh Thurston
Page Views: 113
Submitted By: Ben Rollin on Nov 14, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

Begin by climbing moderate moves until right under the 1st bolt. Now get ready for the crux: pick from an assortment of slope-y pockets to set yourself up for a throw to a crack. It is only then that you can clip the first bolt, so a stickclip is highly recommended. Continue up a few crack systems, do a fun throw to a large pocket, and if you can find the right holds, the top won't give you any problems.

All in all, a fun boulder problem whose difficulty lies almost entirely in the one crux move.

Location 

Up the hill to the left of Pee-Wee, on the short, mossy face.

Protection 

3 bolts with fixed anchors. Well protected, except for the first bolt: highly recommend stickclip.


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By BrandonK
From: Columbus, Ohio
Jul 30, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

CONDITION REPORT 
super mossy and stays damp not recommended
By Pajo
From: Crown Point, IN
Sep 24, 2012

Fun highball problem