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My Lost China Doll 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jonathan Clardy, Kate Bennett - 1998
Page Views: 579
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 7, 2008

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If Finagle's arete climbing isn't your style, the thin face climbing of My Lost China Doll is the alternative after the overhanging start.

Make the same opening moves as for Finagle, but instead of trending left, head straight up the face. A thin crack system soon peters out and gives way to crimpy and balancy climbing. Suss out the not-so-obvious sequence and continue up to easier climbing on positive holds toward the finish.


Shares the start with Finagle, about 5' left of Dirt Bag. Rap from bolted anchors on In Pursuit of Excellence.


Mostly small gear (offset nuts could come in handy). Build a gear anchor at the top.

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