My Little Pony
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This phenomenal route has fallen into obscurity - perhaps due to lack of information - but it should not be missed by those interested in something more unusual and difficult than the standard Black Velvet fare.
P1-3: Climb the first 3 pitches of Sour Mash, but instead of belaying on the comfy ledge below pitch 4, move right to an equally spacious ledge with a single cold shut bolt. This ledge is a little ways below the standard belay ledge.
P4: Notice the two attractive, left-facing corners far above you. Velveeta takes the right hand corner and My Little Pony takes the left hand. Climb up and right with reasonable, but spaced, protection for a long pitch to a good belay ledge below the corner.
P5: Climb the beautiful varnished corner, passing a single bolt (crux - a wonderful stemming sequence) to an uncomfortable belay on the right hand wall. I can't remember exactly what this belay consisted of but I remember it being less than ideal. 5.11d, 80'.
P6: Continue up the corner (which eventually changes aspects) until reaching a roof and very steep rock - pull through this to an exposed stretch of climbing and a belay at two bolts on a narrow ledge. This pitch has some junky rock but is outrageously good. 5.11, 100'.
P7: Finish by climbing up a long crack with ample face holds to a terrace above and to the left of the Black Tower. Traverse to and rappel down Epi with two ropes.
A single set of cams from blue Alien to #3 Camalot, wires (include a few offsets and larger RP's). Two ropes for a safe descent. It is possible to rap down the route with a single 70m rope, but you'll need quicklinks for the bolted anchor and extra tat for the anchor above the crux pitch.
By Stone Nude
Jan 19, 2012
I think this one and Velveeta had independant starts that have been pretty much forgotten. Bet the hardware on this one could use updating.
By Josh Janes
Jan 19, 2012
These routes did have independent starts, but they pass through rather unremarkable terrain. I haven't climbed them, but looking at them from above doesn't make me want to.
The anchors and pro bolts on this route are good with the possible exception of the single cold shut at the point where the climbs diverge from Sour Mash.