My Left Foot  5.13b

857 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.13b [details] FA:  Justin Hausmann Submitted By:  Jim Hausmann on Aug 15, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Route is in the center of photo.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5280647.pdf. For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

P1 - (90 feet, 5.11b) 11 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Follow overlapping, left-leaning flakes with varied climbing. Must do classic!

P2 - (110 feet, 5.13b) 17 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Some desperate moves on nearly perfect rock get you into a left-leaning crack, through a hueco, then transitioning into parallel crack/offsets (crux). There is an optional belay here, or if you've got the endurance, continue thru several 5.12 cruxes to the top.

Descent 

Be very cautious if rappelling this route, as the top 1/2 of the wall overhangs 15'. You don't want to be left dangling at the end of your ropes 90' off the deck. Recommend clipping both ropes through draws during rappel, then tying them off at the P1 anchor so you can pull your 2nd in when they rappel. It's also an easy walk off to the southeast.