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My Left Foot 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Justin Hausmann
Page Views: 1,463
Submitted By: Jim Hausmann on Aug 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Route is in the center of photo.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 - (90 feet, 5.11b) 11 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Follow overlapping, left-leaning flakes with varied climbing. Must do classic!

P2 - (110 feet, 5.13b) 17 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Some desperate moves on nearly perfect rock get you into a left-leaning crack, through a hueco, then transitioning into parallel crack/offsets (crux). There is an optional belay here, or if you've got the endurance, continue thru several 5.12 cruxes to the top.

Descent 

Be very cautious if rappelling this route, as the top 1/2 of the wall overhangs 15'. You don't want to be left dangling at the end of your ropes 90' off the deck. I recommend clipping both ropes through draws during rappel, then tying them off at the P1 anchor so you can pull your 2nd in when they rappel. It's also an easy walk off to the southeast.


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By Luke Childers
Oct 6, 2010

I've only done the 1st pitch of this line, it's really nice, and the 2nd pitch just looks crazy classic pumpy hard and a must do!! Sick.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Oct 8, 2010

The 13 portion can be avoided for those interested in the upper 5.12 pitch. The guidebook describes how all this works, and it makes for some high quality climbing with 2 pitches of 11 and one 12 pitch to top it off. This is really an amazing line for sure. The stone gets better the higher you go.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Wonderful climbing and great stone through the crux on this thing. I felt like the crux came at a different place than the FA, but I guess its entirely possible that we are taking a different line. I found a decent way to gain entry to the left-leaning flake at the first bolt past the first pitch anchors that felt no harder than easy to mid 5.11. However, between the second and third clips I climbed to where the flake begins to turn into an undercling and I desperately smeared straight left to a seam/crack, which via a hard move (very core intensive) allowed me to gain a small little ledge with a couple of crimps at the same height as the hueco.

From the small crimps, I reached right to the hueco and then commenced upwards into the offset crack section (which by the way is amazing climbing). I played around a bit with going straight from the flake to the hueco, but this seemed like it was going to require a very shoulder intensive move that I wanted to avoid. Given the way I climb it, I thought that the crux was the traversing section down low, while the upper offset section was quite a bit easier (though perhaps more pumpy).

No matter how you cut it though, this is an excellent route. Kudos to the Hausmanns for the seeing this line. For those that are interested, I ran the first two pitches together (11b and 13b) and stopped at the anchor off to the right just passed the second pitch crux (use a few longer runners down low). Done this way, I could lower all the way to the ground with my 70m with about 5 feet to spare (tie a knot though just in case my rope is long).
By Scott Sills
Sep 30, 2013

Congratulations on your send. After bolting the upper 2 pitchs of My Left Foot in 2003-2004 (Justin H. bolted the great 1st pitch beliving upper pitch not possible), I worked the 2nd pitch a few times and never did quite send it. Just like you, I found smearing left first was the way to get to the hueco crux to get up to the face and get to the difficult fourth clip.

I had added the anchor off to the right that you used so people could climb the 3rd pitch which I had bolted and sent before bolting the 2nd pitch which seemed impossible until I bolted it and worked it a few times. Glad you enjoyed.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Wow cool, thanks for the history, Scott. By the way, I got on your route "Shiny Face" down the way, and wow, I thought that it was substantially harder than My Left Foot...like several letter grades (maybe mid 13 or so?). I could mostly finesse my way through Left Foot, but Shiny required some serious crimp/boulder strength (not my forte at all). Anyway, thanks for the effort in establishing these routes, good stuff.
By Scott Sills
Oct 2, 2013

I agree Shiny face is thin, balancy and powerful with no rest points. My Left Foot may end up being 12d once it gets climbed on and cleaned up a bit more. Thanks
By Abel Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 21, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Amazing as one megapitch. Had to skip a lot of bolts including one mid-crux. The upper cruxes were super fun as well and shouldn't be missed. Classic 13a if you link it all.
By Andrew Krueger
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Nov 1, 2014

I climbed the first pitch today, and am no big shot by any means, but my partner and I agreed it was not harder than 10c. It was a really enjoyable route, with delicate, committing moves. Full marks.