Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
South Astro Dome - Northeast Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bleed Between the Lines TR 
Breakfast of Champions T 
Crimping Lessons S 
Mamunia S 
Middle Age Crazy T 
Middle Age Crisis S 
Middle Age Savage T 
My Laundry T 
Piggle Pugg T 
Shooting Star T 
Solid Gold T 
Such a Savage T 
Such a Waste TR 
Walking Pneumonia T 

My Laundry 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Wilson and Herb Laeger, November 1976
Page Views: 1,484
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 13, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Darin leading the 2nd pitch. April, 2006.

Description 

This climb is on the northeast face of the South Astro Dome and lies in the center of the face atop a high point of stacked blocks. For reference Solid Gold lies 50' right in an obvious gold-colored streak. This climb climbs up and right to reach an obvious corner system high on the face.

P1) Starting from the stacked blocks climb smooth, delicate friction up and right past five bolts to a belay in thin cracks. As an alternative it is possible to move right 15' to use a bolted anchor on Shooting Star (5.11a R/X).

P2) From the belay climb the cracks/corner system to the top. There have been numerous birds in this area, so don't be surprised if the crack is filled with more than chalk.

To descend rap the route Shooting Star with a single 60 meter in two raps.

A fairly good route, although for the grade Breakfast of Champions is superior and cleaner. Still, not a bad route and one worth doing at least once.


Protection 

5 bolts (3/8"), gear to 3"



Photos of My Laundry Slideshow Add Photo
A well known soloist passing the intersection of Solid Gold and My Laundry.
A well known soloist passing the intersection of S...
Comments on My Laundry Add Comment
Show which comments
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 11, 2003

From the ASCA website: "First three protection bolts replaced. Fourth protection bolt is now a two-bolt anchor for the route to the right. A bomber anchor is at the top of the crack on the second pitch, and is the rap route for Solid Gold as well. Note that Bolt Heaven, which starts on My Laundry, has now had every bolt broken off by body weight or less, apparently due to severe fracturing of the 1/4" bolts in initial placement. ASCA 2/02"

By Cornelius Haupt
From: Dresden, Germany
Oct 24, 2010

October 2010 we did not do the 2nd My Laundry pitch because it was virtually covered with bird droppings, the cracks stuffed with feathers. Solid Gold was a clean alternative.

By Tradoholic
Apr 21, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great climb, bird debris where not an issue. In the green Vogel guide it's not clear that this joins up with the last part of Solid Gold on the first pitch, if you do a sweet mantle on a jug to the last bolt you did it right.

By somillionaire
From: Los Angeles, California
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

After bailing on solid gold because I realized I wasnt good enough to edge climb at that level, my friend and I looked for an easier climb and decided to go up My Laundry. I didnt realize My Laundry was also edge climbing until I got on it and its an amazing lesson in how to do it and trust your feet even when youre well past the bolt. It seems like a decent prep for solid gold when in the area because its not greasy, although Im not knowledge on that type of climbing. The second pitch is also hugely fun, dihedral, crack climbing that is burly but juggy. And the topout on Astrodome is amazing. It was a classic in my book