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This climb is on the northeast face of the South Astro Dome and lies in the center of the face atop a high point of stacked blocks. For reference Solid Gold lies 50' right in an obvious gold-colored streak. This climb climbs up and right to reach an obvious corner system high on the face.
P1) Starting from the stacked blocks climb smooth, delicate friction up and right past five bolts to a belay in thin cracks. As an alternative it is possible to move right 15' to use a bolted anchor on Shooting Star (5.11a R/X).
P2) From the belay climb the cracks/corner system to the top. There have been numerous birds in this area, so don't be surprised if the crack is filled with more than chalk.
To descend rap the route Shooting Star with a single 60 meter in two raps.
A fairly good route, although for the grade Breakfast of Champions is superior and cleaner. Still, not a bad route and one worth doing at least once.
5 bolts (3/8"), gear to 3"
A well known soloist passing the intersection of S...
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 11, 2003
From the ASCA website: "First three protection bolts replaced. Fourth protection bolt is now a two-bolt anchor for the route to the right. A bomber anchor is at the top of the crack on the second pitch, and is the rap route for Solid Gold as well. Note that Bolt Heaven, which starts on My Laundry, has now had every bolt broken off by body weight or less, apparently due to severe fracturing of the 1/4" bolts in initial placement. ASCA 2/02"
|By Cornelius Haupt|
From: Dresden, Germany
Oct 24, 2010
October 2010 we did not do the 2nd My Laundry pitch because it was virtually covered with bird droppings, the cracks stuffed with feathers. Solid Gold was a clean alternative.
Apr 21, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Great climb, bird debris where not an issue. In the green Vogel guide it's not clear that this joins up with the last part of Solid Gold on the first pitch, if you do a sweet mantle on a jug to the last bolt you did it right.