My Idea of Fun 5.12d PG13
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12d [details] |
| FA: | Paul Borne, 1994 (?) |
| Season: | Spring/Summer |
| Submitted By: | T. Stark on Mar 20, 2010 |
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The start of My Idea of Fun
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Description Chossy (probably not climbed a whole lot). Starting at a horizontal crack on the west side of the south face, move right following the bolts up to the horizontal dike. The crux is moving from the lower flakes under the crack to the right side across the cut out. From there it gets runout getting around the corner, past the obvious corner edge (around 5.10) and up to the anchors.
Location Up and left from Swept Away. Scramble up 4th Class choss from in front of the face and then up left onto a large ledge which lies next to the start. Can down climb from the belay ledge (probably not recommended) or can do two raps, one to the ledge and then over to Pope's Crack.
Protection Four bolts leading up to the crux and one at the crux. Gets thin and runout from here on to the anchors. Possibly can slot in some smaller nuts.
BETA PHOTO: Alan Moore leading
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Second bolt
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Get creative with the feet
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Getting ready to move into the flakes
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Fun stuff
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Yup
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Crux area
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Whew
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| Comments on My Idea of Fun |
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 21, 2010
| Great series of pictures, and a great send for Alan and Joshua Tree. The high end climbs don't see alot of action around here |
By RTM
Mar 22, 2010
| Mr. Moore's comment to me was that it is .12d. Did you also send ninja, or is Alan yankin my chain? |
By Murf
Mar 22, 2010
| Cool action sequence in the photos, congrats to Alan. |
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 22, 2010
| Rob,
The rating/name info that ninjakait posted came from me. Wasn't entirely sure about either, but thought it to be close to the mark. |
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 22, 2010
| AKA "Borne to be Wild", this route was graded 5.13 when established in 1994(?). Unrepeated for many years with rumors of it being as hard as 5.14 only adding to the mystique.
In the late 1990's Sean Myles (UK) supposedly sent it or one-hanged it and called it 5.12d/5.13a but that was never confirmed.
Just to clarify this route climbs the dike below Sole Fusion and traverses right to join the anchors atop Swept Away.
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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 9, 2011
| Cool vid of some hard climbing in Josh. Nice bits of history there too. Thanks. |
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