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 ADVANCED
Echo Rock - South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belgian Chongo T 
British Airways T 
Feets Don't Fail Me Now T 
London Calling T 
Moment's Notice T 
My Idea of Fun S 
Nuts are for Men Without Balls T 
Pope's Crack T 
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish T 
Primal Scream T 
Raked over the Coles T 
Roof, the T 
Rule Britannia T 
Sonic and the Hot Dog Water S 
Street Sweeper S 
Swept Away T 
T.S. Special T 
Tucker-Powell T 

My Idea of Fun 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Paul Borne, 1994
Season: Spring/Summer
Page Views: 2,107
Submitted By: T. Stark on Mar 20, 2010

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Crux area

Description 

Chossy (probably not climbed a whole lot). Starting at a horizontal crack on the west side of the south face, move right following the bolts up to the horizontal dike. The crux is moving from the lower flakes under the crack to the right side across the cut out. From there it gets runout getting around the corner, past the obvious corner edge (around 5.10) and up to the anchors.


Location 

Up and left from Swept Away. Scramble up 4th Class choss from in front of the face and then up left onto a large ledge which lies next to the start. Can down climb from the belay ledge (probably not recommended) or can do two raps, one to the ledge and then over to Pope's Crack.


Protection 

Four bolts leading up to the crux and one at the crux. Gets thin and runout from here on to the anchors. Possibly can slot in some smaller nuts.



Photos of My Idea of Fun Slideshow Add Photo
Whew
Whew
Fun stuff
Fun stuff
Get creative with the feet
Get creative with the feet
Yup
Yup
The start of My Idea of Fun
The start of My Idea of Fun
Second bolt
Second bolt
Alan Moore leading
BETA PHOTO: Alan Moore leading
Getting ready to move into the flakes
Getting ready to move into the flakes
Comments on My Idea of Fun Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 21, 2010

Great series of pictures, and a great send for Alan and Joshua Tree. The high end climbs don't see alot of action around here

By RTM
Mar 22, 2010

Mr. Moore's comment to me was that it is .12d. Did you also send ninja, or is Alan yankin my chain?

By Murf
Mar 22, 2010

Cool action sequence in the photos, congrats to Alan.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 22, 2010

Rob,

The rating/name info that ninjakait posted came from me. Wasn't entirely sure about either, but thought it to be close to the mark.

By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 22, 2010

AKA "Borne to be Wild", this route was graded 5.13 when established in 1994. Unrepeated for many years with rumors of it being as hard as 5.14 only adding to the mystique.

In the late 1990's Sean Myles (UK) supposedly sent it or one-hanged it and called it 5.12d/5.13a but that was never confirmed.

Just to clarify this route climbs the dike below Sole Fusion and traverses right to join the anchors atop Swept Away.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 9, 2011

Cool vid of some hard climbing in Josh. Nice bits of history there too. Thanks.