My Heroes Have Always Been Old Guys 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Mike Rigney 8/98 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Sep 22, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Resaquita Wall Rightside topo.
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Description Starts about 10' left of Where Have all the Cowboys Gone? (5.10b) at a short right-facing flake which is the start for both this route and Sureshot (5.12a).
Lieback the starting flake and trend left up slightly overhanging rock past several horizontals to a reachy crux at the 3rd bolt (shorter climbers may need to pop for the distant hold) as you stretch from one horizontal to the next. Above the crux the angle relents and moderate off-vertical face climbing leads to another crux (poor rock) past the 5th bolt before topping out onto a large ledge with anchors.
A direct finish to this route continues straight up past the 2nd bolt and is called Sureshot (5.12a).
Protection 5 bolts, chain anchors (shared w/ Where Have all the Cowboys Gone?)
| Comments on My Heroes Have Always Been Old Guys |
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By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 22, 2007
| This is a three star route but the decomposing kitty litter rock at the 2nd crux (5th bolt) brings the overall quality down a bit. A better finish is to clip the last bolt, head right to the anchors on Sureshot and then lower off. If you top out be warned that the anchors are about 15' back from the lip.
Rated 5.11c in the guidbook, but it seems a little soft compared to other nearby routes at the same grade.
The name is presumably a take-off on the Willie Nelson song (or the 1991 movie). |
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Nov 18, 2007
rating: 5.11b/c
| If you can make the reach at the first crux you'll find it fairly easy for the grade. It climbs well with some good moves all the way to the top. A slight move right at the top avoids the kitty litter. |
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