My Generation 5.12d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | Kevin Gonzales |
| Submitted By: | Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2002 |
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Past the crux (which was totally dogged).
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Description Just right of Ejection Seat, My Generation tackles another steep overhang and slab. It begins with a tough, bouldery start to a horizontal break (rest), then continue with a very thin section to an obvious hueco. Shake out and complete a final crux reach. Enjoy the tricky 5.11 slab. This is the easiest of Dan Durland's Triple Crown routes, but if you do not have the cruxes dialed, I would recommend a very long draw for the second bolt above the break. This bolt is very difficult to clip otherwise, since it is in the middle of the crux. A fall onto the lower bolt is awkward and potentially dangerous. Otherwise, this has excellent climbing.
Protection 9 bolts/ anchors.
Finally doing some climbing.
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| Comments on My Generation |
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By Joe Collins
Oct 18, 2004
rating: 5.12d
| I'm not sure how useful Peter's suggestion of a long draw on the 2nd bolt after the horizontal (4th total) will be... its a pretty tough clip but there really aren't any decent lower holds... the best hold in this section is a crimpy pocket next to the bolt... I'll have to check out that beta when I return. Bring a stick clip... pre-clipping the first two-bolts seems fairly crucial for the boulder problem. |
By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Feb 11, 2008
| Long draw on the 4th bolt is the (shhhh!) secret beta for a shorter climber, it makes all the difference. This route is enjoyable and worth an effort- tricky and engaging moves followed by a couple big reaches and fun slab climbing- from super steep to thin slab in 30 seconds. Don't forget to tick Ejector Seat also! |
By Will Anglin
From: Sykesville, MD
Jan 18, 2011
rating: 5.13a
| I felt like this was pretty similar to some of the other .13a's at Shelf. |
By steph johnson
May 15, 2011
| What routes make up Durland's Triple Crown day? |
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Dec 13, 2011
rating: 5.13a
| I think this is 13a, but if we call it 12d, it's consistent with the general old school/sand-bagged nature of the Gym.
The Gym triple crown is to do The Example, Deeper Shade, and My Generation in a day. It probably made more sense BITD when there weren't a many hard routes at Shelf. |
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