My Favorite Things 5.10a
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Good page? (5 likes)   |
| Type: | Trad, 15 pitches, 2700 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Hannah North, Tom Harper, Tom Malzbender |
| Submitted By: | TylerW on Feb 11, 2010 |
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Scott leading the crux pitch (11)
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Description Every Tuolumne climber has eyed the huge face of clouds rest. Then, one day I found a description on the internet (myweb.cableone.net/tomharper/FTTop.html) of an awesome sounding route right up the middle. With 2700 feet of 5.9ish climbing, it sounded too good to be true. Finally in 2009 we went out and did the route and it has become one of my favorite climbs in Yosemite.
Tom Harper has a great topo here: myweb.cableone.net/tomharper/FTTopo.html
The pitches are almost all 55-60m long, ending in two beefy bolt anchors, and the "official" ratings are:
1: 5.5
2: 5.8
3: 5.8
4: 5.7
5: 5.7
6: 5.7
7: 5.8
8: 5.9
9: 5.9
10: 5.7
11: 5.10a
12: 5.9
13: 5.7
14: 5.8
15: 5.9
I think these ratings are slightly soft, but considering the amount of climbing, you need to be solid at the grade to make it happen in a day.
With a 6 mile cross country approach, 2700 feet of climbing, 1200 feet of 3rd to the top and 7 miles back to the car, it is a burly, rewarding day.
Location see myweb.cableone.net/tomharper/FTGetThere.html for a great description.
Protection All anchors have two bolts. Almost all the pitches require a 60m rope. The first 10 pitches can be rapped without leaving any gear. There are bolts here and there, but it is mostly trad gear, with emphasis on small to finger size.
approach slabs at dawn
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Rivers can form in early season making things a bi...
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great views from the bushy knoll ledge at pitch 10
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nearing the top as the slabs start to roll off. s...
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Scott belaying at the top of the final pitch
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BETA PHOTO: My Favorite Things topo -- From myweb.cable...
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| Comments on My Favorite Things |
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By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 11, 2010
| Awesome route! We were about 19 hours car-to-car.
We did this route in mid-June and pitches 2, 3, and especially 8 had water running down them. we just dealt with it on pitches 2 and 3, but pitch 8 was a real river and we ended up doing a cool alternate route involving a 5.9 hand crack to the left of the belay to a hand traverse right. I recommend it even if the water isn't flowing. That pitch was the first time I had ever placed a cam in a river.
Some might consider a few of the pitches runout, but it is always on fairly easy ground. |
By squiddo
From: Mountain View, CA
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.10a R
| Did this route and found it very fun and a great car to car adventure.
As previously noted, we too found pitches 2 and 3 wet. We were able to climb/friction around it. One important point. On pitch 3 the first bolt off the belay was nearly impossible to clip. To make matters worse, it is smack dab in the middle of a water flow. My guess, rocks beat the hanger down.
Suggestion would be the next person planning on doing this climb bring a new hanger and wrench. AT the very least bring a quick link. Not even a BD Oz made it through the hanger and allowed a decent and secure clip. |
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 25, 2010
| We clipped the bent bolt by girth hitching a nut through it. Not ideal, but better than nothing. |
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