My Demon Lover
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,161 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | brianhaas on Jan 8, 2012 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
The first crux is a mixture of body position and hight, no more than 7 feet off the ground. A drop knee-layback deal to a (PG-13 if on lead) dubious reach. Second Crux is just below the two bolt anchor with a sandy hand-jam traverse lacking any feet placement, much easier than the first crux. I'd highly recommend TRing it before you try freeing it; it's a stout .11a if you fudge the movement with a nasty ground fall.
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