My Cave or Yours 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | B. Demallie, 1989 |
| Season: | Faces North- late sun only |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Aug 11, 2009 |
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Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
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Description A tough line with tough holds that are tough to see. It was traditionally rated 11b, but even wired, the climb would be substantially harder. I find that Demallie edging routes generally are.
Climb up non-trivial moves to the first bolt. The opening moves are either a thin boulder problem or stepping up off a rock behind the climb... clip the first bolt, then make increasingly difficult moves off of smaller and more hidden holds until the 3rd bolt at the crux. Decipher that, and climb up over the top to reach the summit bolts, which require 2-foot draws to lower off.
A person who likes very small holds might perhaps like this route more than me. I found it reminiscent in style and difficulty to the lower part of 'Camouflage' on Rincon in Eldo (5.12-).
Location From the front of the Cave complex scramble up through and over many rocks on the North end to reach the pointed Southern Summit of the area. On the North Face you will see a 3-bolt line.
Protection 3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor over the top. The walk off is back South to a low angle gully, down the gully then North and West to the base.
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