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Art of Dreaming, The 
Bedtime Story 
Bobsled Direct Start aka War Sled 
Bobsled, The 
Caffeine Buzz 
Chore Boy 
Daily Grind, The 
Golden Slumber 
Lucky Strikes 
Morpheus 
Mr. Sandman 
My Buddy 
Napster 
Not So Obscure 
Opener 
Sleepless Child 
Sleepless in Boulder 
Smell the Coffee 
Snooze Button 
Something Obscure 
Tooth Fairy 
Wake Up Call 
War On Freedom 

My Buddy 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Vaino Kodas, 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 454
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 1, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, left side.

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  • Description 

    Start as for "Bedtime Story" and climb up to the fourth bolt on that route. Gain a ledge and traverse left to a cold-shut. Belay here or use a long sling and climb up orange rock on good holds to a ledge. Gain the ledge and crank over a bulge and gain a near-vertical slab. Crank up the nice slab past four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.


    Protection 

    12 bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor. There is an optional belay on a ledge 40 feet up. One cold-shut and small gear for the belay.



    Photos of My Buddy Slideshow Add Photo
    Routes on the far left side of Plotinus Wall.
    BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Plotinus Wall.
    Comments on My Buddy Add Comment
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    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 28, 2003
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    A fun route, which is still a little dirty due to lack of traffic. It shares the pumpy layback start of Bedtime Story before branching off after the fourth bolt. A fun stem left at the sixth bolt, a neat bulge with good handholds up higher, and a crux slab at the top. The hardest move was at the next-to-last bolt; 10b/c seems about right. I may have skipped another hard move at the last bolt by sliding to the left.

    After leading the pitch, I lowered from the anchors and my partner followed and cleaned the pitch on top-rope. It would be hard to clean the pitch while lowering or rappelling due to the traverse from the fourth to sixth bolts.

    If you scramble up the loose gully to do Bedtime Story, be sure to do My Buddy as well.

    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Littleton
    Apr 20, 2007

    I almost skipped this route as Rolofson gives it no stars. However, it is an OK route and worth doing if you just did "Bedtime Story". There is still a lot of lichen near the crux.