Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Bend Center
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Wind T 
Community Project T 
Ed's Jam T 
Introductory Offer T 
Local Knowledge T 
MX T 
Peace, Love and Rope T 
Riptide T 
Seizure T 

MX 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,242
Submitted By: Addict on Mar 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The two pitches of MX can be linked into one 210 f...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the middle fingercrack of 3 long lines in the center of the wall. The first pitch is mid 5th and short. The second pitch has no crux but is sustained fingercrack for approximately 150 feet. Probably my favorite pitch of the grade ever.

Location 

The easiest descent if to walk over to climber's right then rap one of the shorter lines on the west side of the wall.

Protection 

Gear to 2" with triples in the 3/4" to 1.5" range.
60 meter rope


Photos of MX Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The two pitches of MX can be linked into one 210 f...
BETA PHOTO: The two pitches of MX can be linked into one 210 f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sustained 5.10a finger-to-hand crack climbing on M...
BETA PHOTO: Sustained 5.10a finger-to-hand crack climbing on M...

Comments on MX Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ed Mosshart
Apr 23, 2009

FA~~Ed Mosshart
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jul 27, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Also gets my vote for best 10a crack. A 70m rope will get you back to the big ledge by rapping off the MX anchor. We used a 60m, and did some gear clip in down climbing.
Mostly thin fingers, don't really need triple above .75 Camalot.
By Steph Abegg
From: Bellingham, WA
Apr 24, 2016

A note on the rappel: There are some rope-eating pockets if you rap from the top of MX, plus you only get down to the ledge and then have do do some downclimbing. A better option would be to walk about 50 feet to climbers' right from the top of the route and rap down from some chains just left of the top of Ed's Jam. There is an intermediate rap station just under a roof about 25m down; if you use this intermediate rap station you can rap down to your packs and avoid the downclimbing (the downclimbing is not bad, but probably overall it's actually quicker to just rap to your packs rather than downclimb while dragging your rope with you).

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!