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(03) Bivi Wall/Swallow Wall
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Muy Enfermo 
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Stuck in Puberty 

Muy Enfermo 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Michael LaPlante
Page Views: 318
Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Slightly overhanging Muy Enfermo.

Description 

One of the most popular routes at Mentmore, and all the more so since it was accorded "area classic" status in Falcon Press's 'Rock Climbing New Mexico". This IS an excellent route: steep and sustained, with interesting movement throughout on a variety of hold types. For the full effect, stay on the boltline; moving right to rest on lower-angled terrain makes it significantly easier. This route suffers a bit from loose and crumbly rock, however. Be careful not to bean the belayer.


Location 

Look for an obvious boltline in the middle of the Swallow Wall, passing just right of the swallow nests themselves. Walk off, or lower off. Don't try to rap; my memory is that the ropes stick.


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Watch out for the first bolt: it wiggles, and the hanger is loose.



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By TWPalmer
Feb 22, 2010

First bolt & hanger was loose, however a crescent tightened it up nicely, as well as a few other bolts on the route.