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Morrell's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beat Feet T 
Epacondilitis T 
Halloweenie T 
Harpoon A Troon S 
It's Your Party S 
Jeff T 
Leave It To Beaver T 
Mutt T 
Sinbad (Variation) T,S 
Space Cadets T 
Tumbling Dice S 
Unsorted Routes:

Mutt 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Dargis, Jim Waugh 1977 (pitch 1) John Ficker, Glen Dickinson 1982 (pitch 2)
Page Views: 1,196
Submitted By: roman d on Dec 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 of Mutt goes up to the striking hand crack...

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Description 

The first pitch is a really fun 5.7 crack on its own. Follow flakes up and left to wide lieback flake, then to a straight in hand crack up to large ledge.

From here you can either rap off a slung pinch point between boulders, or continue to the top of the wall on either Leave it to Beaver, Mutt, Jeff, or Harpoon a Troon.

Mutt follows the left leaning dihedral/undercling (wide pro) to a crux thin crack in a corner and then up face to the top.

It would be wise to bring webbing to reinforce rap stations.

Location 

On the far right side of Morrell's is a detached wall with 2 striking cracks on it. The first pitch of Mutt goes up the left hand crack.

To get to the starting ledge for Mutt and Jeff, climb 30' of 5th class through overlapping flakes.

Protection 

standard rack + some big pieces for both pitches


Photos of Mutt Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P2
P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Not as bad once you are in the hand crack
Not as bad once you are in the hand crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting busy in the crux area
Getting busy in the crux area
Rock Climbing Photo: Lieback flake on P1 of Mutt. You can see through t...
Lieback flake on P1 of Mutt. You can see through t...
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 of Mutt
BETA PHOTO: P2 of Mutt

Comments on Mutt Add Comment
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By Ted Smith
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 29, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Honestly, the first pitch felt almost like a 5.9. The second pitch was more like 5.7. I'm wondering if someone got the ratings mixed up . . . both pitches being a lot of fun! The top anchors have chains and a rap ring--as do the middle anchors. Sweet Climb!!!

Update: 12/1/15--after time to think and review old ratings, this climb is trickier to protect on the first pitch than several 5.7 climbs in the area and requires large gear to protect from serious injury if you fall. If you are a 5.11 to 5.12 trad climber, it may be difficult to tell if it is 5.7 or 5.8+. I am not that strong, but the first pitch is harder for me than Birthday Party (5.7), Beat Feat (5.7), Dead Meat (5.7), Treiber's Deception (5.7), Black Death (5.8), Mickey Mantle (5.8), and even the bottom half of Chug-a-lug (5.8). The top pitch, also tricky to protect--unless you love Big-bros (as I do)--is an easy 5.6 unless you climb straight up the finger crack to the left of the obvious left-facing dihedral just to the right and after rounding the corner past the wide crack section. With questionable rock quality--with the exception of one or two key gear placements--on that 5.9 crack, I can't imagine opting for such a contrived line when such an obvious alternative is so close. What gives?!? Sorry folks, but I'm not all that impressed with the emperor's fashion sense. Maybe when I can lead solid 5.11 in all styles I will begin to understand the great wisdom of the elders and finally appreciate the emperor's new clothes.

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