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Pirate's Cove
Routes Sorted
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As Surely as the Flower Blooms T 
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Mutiny S 
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Mutiny 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,647
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Mutiny. Fall, 1999.

Description 

Mutiny is the obvious, razor-sharp overhanging arete at Pirates' Cove -- only accessible during low water. Boulder up to a high first clip, and continue clipping bolts on the right side of the arete, using holds on both sides, to a crux move near the anchors. The climb is often dirty due to high water, but it is classic nonetheless.

Protection 

A half dozen draws or so.


Photos of Mutiny Slideshow Add Photo
Jeremy Steck on Mutiny.
Jeremy Steck on Mutiny.
Mutiny Arete from afar
Mutiny Arete from afar
Mutiny in May. There boulders below the surface of...
Mutiny in May. There boulders below the surface of...
Josh J. on Mutiny 10/19/13
Josh J. on Mutiny 10/19/13

Comments on Mutiny Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 24, 2009

If you don't have a stick clip, and you have gear...A #3 Camalot fits perfectly where you might want the first bolt to be.
By Daniel H.
From: Cincinnati
Mar 30, 2012

This route is fun and consistent. Stay on the arete for full value, the face holds near the top suck anyway.
By will merryman
From: Monaca P.A.
Aug 19, 2012

I love arete's go left at top. straight up variation is pretty hard slab climbing. I think it goes at 5.12b. I hate slabs.
By Phil S
From: Bethlehem, NH
Mar 1, 2013

The intended line goes straight up the slab to the anchors, which is 5.11c or d depending upon who you ask. Certainly not 12b. Skipping the crux makes the route quite a bit easier since it's pretty much fluff until you hit the slab.
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 11, 2014

Pretty soft for 11c, just saying.