Mutiny on the Bounty 5.11+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Jim Haisley, Paul Davidson, Tim Coats |
| Submitted By: | Kole DeCou on Feb 23, 2007 |
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The ultra-steep, ultra-thin, ultra-powerful crux o...
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Description One of the classic forks tips cracks. Start just right of the Prow OW, at a thin crack in broken rock. Climb this finger crack (5.10+) to a ledge. Move to the left side of the ledge, then up the clean steep tips crack in a tight stemming or layback corner. Eats up green Aliens/.3 Camalots. Some people move left into a slightly wider (yellow Alien?) splitter crack. 5.11+ either way.
Location Just right of the OW at the base of the prow at a thin crack in chunky rock.
Protection 2 each to #1 Camalot, 1 #2 Camalot, with 4 or 5 green Alien size. I place 4, but 5 might be nice for an onsight attempt.
| Comments on Mutiny on the Bounty |
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By chuck claude From: Flagstaff, Az May 10, 2007
| As with everything people have different suggestions, My gear list is usually 1 green alien (I use a red BD C3), heavy in blue BD microcams (0.3) and grey BD microcams (0.4) and then 2 0.5 camalot jr, and 3 0.75 camalot jrs and no (0) 1.0camalots (red) |
By Kole DeCou From: Flagstaff, AZ May 22, 2008
| Woops, looked a little closer, deleted my last comment. The line labeled '20' in the Falcon Guide is indeed in the wrong place. From the ledge Mutiny traverses off left and goes up the tips corner. The seam that goes straight up where the book shows Mutiny is very hard, probably 5.12ish, harder than Sail Away I thought. Not sure if it's been led or not. Sail Away goes up from the right side of the ledge. |
By Mike From: Phoenix Jun 22, 2009 rating: 5.12-
| I think the start of this climb (from the ledge) is HARD! It seems made for those with smaller fingers. After this, the left crack seems slightly easier to me, good finger locks, then back to the right crack for an easier finish. |
By Paul Davidson Jun 24, 2009 rating: 5.11+
| Left crack then right crack ? All I remember is a pretty clean continous corner. Definetely smalls tips help for the first 20-30 feet. Get starting gear, go up get one or two placements higher, come down, shake out and start running for it. Stop once (maybe twice) and get something in and the go for the bucket stem ! Once you hit the stem, it's in the bag. Not that it's a give away above that but if you can get there, you can finish. (assuming you're not totaly blown.) |
By Mike From: Phoenix Jul 14, 2009 rating: 5.12-
| Yes Paul, right crack, then left crack, then back to the right crack, all in the corner. Scroll up and read the route description. My friends with small fingers generally stay in the (smaller) right crack. I agree that once you get the nice stem it gets much easier. |
By Greg DeMatteo From: W. Lebanon, NH Jul 17, 2009 rating: 5.11+
| Am I the only one who bails left into the locker finger crack and just stays there? |
By Dustin Wildermuth From: Flagstaff, AZ Aug 14, 2009
| I think it depends on if you lay the thing back or stem weather you use the left crack. If laying back good luck getting out of it before the "bucket stem", and once your there you don't need the left crack. This thing is sick!! |
By Ted Roberts Apr 17, 2010
| straight up is the way! right crack is the real bounty! yeah dustin! |
By J. Snyder Jul 2, 2012
| Heads up to anyone getting on Mutiny there is a rather large colony of bats residing in the upper section of the headwall crack. There is also a good amount of feces and urine accompanying them...Hopefully soon they will stop hang doggin' the route! |
By Robbie Brown From: Flagstaff, AZ Apr 3, 2013 rating: 5.11d
| Just note that the rack description above does not include the first 20ft of the climb. Bring an extra 2 purple c3s, a .3, and a .5 for the whole climb. You want all the small shit you can get! |
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