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The Prow
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Mutiny on the Bounty 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jim Haisley, Paul Davidson, Tim Coats
Page Views: 3,516
Submitted By: Kole DeCou on Feb 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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The ultra-steep, ultra-thin, ultra-powerful crux o...

Description 

One of the classic forks tips cracks. Start just right of the Prow OW, at a thin crack in broken rock. Climb this finger crack (5.10+) to a ledge. Move to the left side of the ledge, then up the clean steep tips crack in a tight stemming or layback corner. Eats up green Aliens/.3 Camalots. Some people move left into a slightly wider (yellow Alien?) splitter crack. 5.11+ either way.


Location 

Just right of the OW at the base of the prow at a thin crack in chunky rock.


Protection 

2 each to #1 Camalot, 1 #2 Camalot, with 4 or 5 green Alien size. I place 4, but 5 might be nice for an onsight attempt.



Photos of Mutiny on the Bounty Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan Fields on Mutiny on the Bounty (5.11+), Paradise Forks. Photo by Emerich Hlava.
Ryan Fields on Mutiny on the Bounty (5.11+), Parad...
Mutiny
Mutiny
Crush
Crush
Mutiny on the Bounty.
Mutiny on the Bounty.
Comments on Mutiny on the Bounty Add Comment
Show which comments
By chuck claude
From: Flagstaff, Az
May 10, 2007

As with everything people have different suggestions, My gear list is usually 1 green alien (I use a red BD C3), heavy in blue BD microcams (0.3) and grey BD microcams (0.4) and then 2 0.5 camalot jr, and 3 0.75 camalot jrs and no (0) 1.0camalots (red)

By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 22, 2008

Woops, looked a little closer, deleted my last comment.

The line labeled '20' in the Falcon Guide is indeed in the wrong place. From the ledge Mutiny traverses off left and goes up the tips corner. The seam that goes straight up where the book shows Mutiny is very hard, probably 5.12ish, harder than Sail Away I thought. Not sure if it's been led or not. Sail Away goes up from the right side of the ledge.

By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jun 22, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I think the start of this climb (from the ledge) is HARD! It seems made for those with smaller fingers. After this, the left crack seems slightly easier to me, good finger locks, then back to the right crack for an easier finish.

By Paul Davidson
Jun 24, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Left crack then right crack ?
All I remember is a pretty clean continous corner.
Definetely smalls tips help for the first 20-30 feet.
Get starting gear, go up get one or two placements higher, come down, shake out and start running for it. Stop once (maybe twice) and get something in and the go for the bucket stem ! Once you hit the stem, it's in the bag. Not that it's a give away above that but if you can get there, you can finish. (assuming you're not totaly blown.)

By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jul 14, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Yes Paul, right crack, then left crack, then back to the right crack, all in the corner. Scroll up and read the route description. My friends with small fingers generally stay in the (smaller) right crack.

I agree that once you get the nice stem it gets much easier.

By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Jul 17, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Am I the only one who bails left into the locker finger crack and just stays there?

By Dustin Wildermuth
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 14, 2009

I think it depends on if you lay the thing back or stem weather you use the left crack. If laying back good luck getting out of it before the "bucket stem", and once your there you don't need the left crack. This thing is sick!!

By Ted Roberts
Apr 17, 2010

straight up is the way! right crack is the real bounty! yeah dustin!

By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jul 2, 2012

Heads up to anyone getting on Mutiny there is a rather large colony of bats residing in the upper section of the headwall crack. There is also a good amount of feces and urine accompanying them...Hopefully soon they will stop hang doggin' the route!

By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 3, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Just note that the rack description above does not include the first 20ft of the climb. Bring an extra 2 purple c3s, a .3, and a .5 for the whole climb. You want all the small shit you can get!