BETA PHOTO: Mustang Ranch from approach. Photo by Blitzo.
Description
These small crags lie to the east of Brownie Girl Dome and southwest of Bear Island and about 3/4 of a mile from the parking lot. It is actually two small formations. Most of the routes are on the east-side of both formations.
The Mustang Ranch was a brothel, located in Mustang, Nevada, 8 miles east of Reno. In 1971, Virginia City local, Joe Comforte opened The Mustang Ranch, Nevada's first licensed Brothel. It operated into the 1990s, when The I.R.S. took over the operation to recover back taxes. Mr. Comforte left the country, never to be seen again.
Getting There
Hike the Wonderland Trail for about 3/4 mile, there will be a boulder on the right side of the trail with a dike across the bottom. Mustang Ranch is a short walk northwest from near this point.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mustang Ranch:
This is the short, unprotected, vertical dike at the far right side of the north face of the south formation. It's a cool clean dike and more of a boulder problem than a route. Guide books give it a 5.9 rating, although I haven't checked Randy's latest guide. I thought it was more like 5.7. There is a chimney behind it, that can be used as a descent (easy Class 5)....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
There's a couple of big glue-in eye bolts near the top of Pahrump that can be used to rap off the top of the west (higher) formation to the east, but be prepared to work your ass off to get your rope back after rapping...lots of friction on the gob of choss up top that you rap off of.
Didn't look too hard for a downclimb, but next time I think I'll look a little harder.