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The Crow's Nest
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Mussels 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Sprauge, 8/04
Page Views: 450
Submitted By: Jeffrey LeCours on Mar 22, 2010
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Description 

Starting in a steep corner on flake jugs, wander upwards and eventually around the right side of the bulge above. Enjoyable moves continue through a fairly vegetated top half.

After a set of sunny days, this was one of the routes at this cliff that took longer to dry out.


Location 

Between Mutiny and The Little Mermaid


Protection 

5 Bolts to LO



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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 29, 2011

This is one of those routes with fun climbing if completely cleaned, but it ended up needing a lot more than I expected, so never really got finished. I would imagine it has grown back a lot too. It probably needs a new maddocking every other year where debris collects on it to stay in good form. It's slightly contrived at the top too, which makes it mediocre to me. What atracted me to the line was the steep juggy start.

I love Ward's description of it in the guidebook: "Beautiful eyebolts in steep moss"

By Julian Paul
From: New York, NY
Sep 6, 2012

If you have a spare person, have them spot while your belayer stays anchored to the tree behind the route. There's a steep drop that could push them off the edge if you fall before the first clip.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

The route could use a little cleaning but it is nothing like the description in Ward's guide. I found this climb to have a fun crux start which is followed by rather uninteresting climbing to the eye bolt anchors. The ground at the base of this climb is almost always wet so the opening crux moves can feel rather slippery.