Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
North Chasm View Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
827 Go! (AKA Job Site Dogs) T 
A Midsummer's Night Dream T 
Air Guitar T 
Air Voyage T 
Apparition, The T 
Black Penny 
Black Sheep, The T 
Bloodsport T 
Colorado Welcome Party T 
Cruise, The T 
Diagonal, The T 
Dylan Wall T 
Eighth Voyage of Sinbad T 
Free Hallucinogen Wall, The T 
Free Nose, The T 
Goss-Logan T 
Hallucinogen Wall, The T 
Highway 61 Revisited T 
Journey Home T 
Kachina Wings T 
Leisure Climb T 
Movable Stoned Voyage T 
Moveable Feast T 
Musical Partners T 
Qualgeist T 
Scenic Cruise, The T 
Stoned Oven T 
Straight Out Da Projects T 
Trilogy  T 
Twisted T 
Walk of Shame T 
White Devil TR 

Musical Partners 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Webster, Scannell 1983
Season: fall/spring cloudy days
Page Views: 1,133
Submitted By: Armin on May 7, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Start of the route.

2016 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

From Williams' book/my 2 cents: the route climbs leftmost of three crack systems, 20 ft left of Midsummer.

P1. Traverse left from 1st ledge 30 feet above gully. Gain crack system through moderate broken terrain, setup belay small grassy ledge right below base crack/pod system. 100.'

P2. Fire up pod/squeeze to gain finger/hand crack. you can either face climb or squeeze this first section, my partner leading it faced climbed with a powerful mantel move. Follow this system to base bombay chimney. 130'. Semihanging belay. Might be easier/more comfortable to belay lower.

P3. Squeeze chimney with PRO TCUs/Aliens follow moderate, broken, wandering terrain angling slightly [left] to large ledge base Sex Comedy pitch/Leisure route.

P4. Sex Comedy finish. Blast up steep, powerful, hand crack goes to fists. I exited left around the block halfway up the pitch and finished with 5.9 face move in right-facing corner above large flake that you just climbed over and top out to belay with red Camalots, 5.10.

Optional P5. Walk 60 yards west (left) which is way out and look for 1X4 foot pointed block. It's the first crack system L of the OW (Kuma Sutra?) Bouldery start to hands fingers, with exciting peg finish with stemming, 5.10.

Location 

Descend the Cruise Gully. 100 feet after 2nd rappel. Solo up 4th class ledges 40 feet. After P4, walkoff left or do the optional P5.

Protection 

Black Alien, doubles from green Alien size through #3 Camalot (1) #4 with extra hand and fist gear for Sex Comedy variation.


Comments on Musical Partners Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ouray Badger
May 23, 2016

I believe the Sex Comedy finish is to the LEFT of Musical Partners. it certainly is to the left of Midsummer Night's Dream. It is shown to the left in William's book (pg. 101).

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!