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Castle Rock - North Side
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Bella Lugosi 
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Diagnostics 
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Love at First Bite 
Music Box 
One Point Crack 
That Old Soft Shoe 
Transylvania Twist 
Two Point Crack 

Music Box 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Paul (?)
Page Views: 1,449
Submitted By: Andy on Apr 23, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Eric clipping near the bottom
Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the crack left of Bella Lugosi. An easy start leads to some wide and flaring jams with some helpful features on the face to the left.

It feels a bit strenuous for a few moves.


Protection 

Medium to large cams, gear and/or long sling for anchor



Photos of Music Box Slideshow Add Photo
Nathan Fitzhugh chalking up off of a nice fist jam.
Nathan Fitzhugh chalking up off of a nice fist jam...
The route
The route
Nicole being belayed by Geoff
Nicole being belayed by Geoff
Comments on Music Box Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 17, 2012
By Woody Stark
Oct 4, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The guide has this route at eight. Locker and I have it at 10a. It's an excellent route: good protection all the way and quite sustained.

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 5, 2005

I have done this route before and remembered it from the past as being more difficult than 5.8. Today while climbing it I debated with Woody if 5.9+ might suit it better because 5.9+ can be almost anything from 5.9 to 5.10d out here... So ambiguous... But after taking a few good ones, I even decked one at the start, I thing I agree with the Woodman... Whatever you want to rate it, with all of the other climbs on the same formation, it is well worht the longer drive to do them... And don't forget to do "That Old Soft Shoe"...It could be that we were just pumped from doing other routes I suppose...maybe Woody, we could go do it fresh and see???...

By The Gray Tradster
Oct 5, 2005

"The hardest 5.8 in the park!"

There is a trick to it and it may be height or hand size dependent.I've always felt 5.8 was fair, but nobody else did.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 23, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Difficult climbing for me down low. Borderline off-width.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Oct 28, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This route sucks ass. I'm willing to entertain the idea that I climbed it on a bad day, and the crack usually isn't as slick. I found slimy, flared "jams" for a good section of the bottom. A climb to miss for sure. Did I mention this climb sucks ass?

By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Nov 5, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Lots and lots of BD #3's helps with this climb

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Was in the area so I decided to be fair and give it another shot. My opinion still stands, the slimy flared jams are terrible. This route is all yours Obi, I will never set hand in it again.

By jim schuring
From: pennsylvania
Mar 14, 2010

did this climb week trying to fit one more easy climb in for the day unfortunately we wanted to do the 5.6 so it felt alot alot harder but once we relooked up the route it made sense at 5.8 + if you are breaking in the grade you could sew it up but do not miss it

By Brandontyrrell
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

not worth climbing

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 19, 2010

An excellent 5.8 route if you have any crack climbing technique.

By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Named after a song by the band Genesis from their album "Nursery Cryme" (1971).

By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Apr 20, 2010

I'm surprised at the negative comments. This is a great, safe route that I usually recommend to aspiring 5.8 leaders. I love Music Box.

By Tradoholic
Mar 16, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

5.9 for sure. The jams are very technical, your hands and fingers must get deep and just so to get any purchase. I whipped four times at the start and then taped up. Tape made all the difference.

By MAR
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This climb is by far the hardest "5.8" I have ever done. That said, it has some fun movement on it, and my climbing partner really enjoyed following it. His thought was that if you can fist jam #3 blue Camelots, its 5.8. If your hands are smaller, then its 5.something else. I tend to agree with that assessment.

By Richard Shore
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Anyone who thinks this is harder than 5.8 has either dwarf hands or poor jamming technique. The routes inclusion in the 60-easy/favorites guide lures unsuspecting climbers who probably think "it's only 5.8." It was beautiful cupped hands for me most of the way with an occasional fist or forearm jam. I didn't find it slimy or flaring. I do have a #4 camalot-sized fist, though. Freesoloed onsight.

By metcalfd
From: Reston VA
Mar 12, 2012

Sandbag! Definitely agree with most that this is harder than 5.8. The route is very sustained and fun, but don't come looking for a warm-up on this one!

By Canon
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Total sandbag for 5.8. Very strenuous, takes bigger gear (3s and 4s)