This is a great crack climb. I would recommend this for someone breaking into the 5.10 grade as the gear is good and the crux is low to the ground. Start by climbing a thin finger crack. Continue up the crack as it widens to hand size. There are several really good holds in the crack as you proceed. The top can be a bit dirty depending on the time of year and recent rains.
Just to the right of Screamer Crack. Around the corner heading upstream from Supercrack.
Nuts for the start, hand size pieces for the rest. Shuts at the top.
|By David Raines|
Jun 29, 2013
Nuts for the start, and nuts and small to medium sized gear for most of the route (I may have used a #3 BD cam, but I forget).
Great little climb. Safe, once you get the first piece in (which you might want to boulder up to place first, with a spotter). Very fun moves. The only reason the rating isn't higher is that its only about 50'
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Small nuts at the bottom protect the first fifteen feet well, but don't hang out placing them. Things ease off after the first third of the route, but it's still 5.9+/5.10- in places and can feel tenuous if you're pumped. Placed a #2 BD but never anything bigger. Fun lead!