Mushfaker  5.10 PG13

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Type:  Trad, 70 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Darren Mabe / Glen Broom New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Darren Mabe on Jul 15, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

In case you need a fix in the rain...
Start with the steep crack entry moves of South of No North but traverse into the leaning dihedral over some rotten rock. Jam and stem the corner (crux) and continue almost to the roof but traverse straight right to the anchors of Gandy Dancer.

Though having mediocre climbing and pro, this route stays dry in a downpour except for the finishing moves to the anchors.

Location 

the obvious right facing dihedral right of the South of No North arete.

Protection 

a few draws, a couple slings, and gear to #.75 Camalot with emphasis on smaller stuff and a set of stoppers. For full trad value, skip the bolts of SoNN.