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Josh Janes entering the crux of Muscular Dystrophy...
Up at the top of the West Ridge, this route has nice position. The first pitch is easy 5.9, then comes a nice crux. It is very technical, but not sustained, a 3-move sequence with a big gravity bill waiting for anyone who doesn't keep their eyes and mind wide open. It seems a little harder than some area 5.11a's, but again, the crux is short.
The pro solid for someone of average height. The crux is a bomber small-medium (#6BD) nut placement above the head that is at the feet when the crux is completed. Take a normal rack with 2 big-hand-sized cams for the jams getting up to the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Taken on Oct. 23, 2004.
Josh Janes in the crux of Muscular Dystrophy.
Josh Janes working hard to pull out of the crux of...
Placing the bomber nut at the crux....
Starting the route.
Placing gear in the crux corner.
|Comments on Muscular Dystrophy
|By Ben F|
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Aug 12, 2001
I did this climb this morning. This 2 star route is a good choice for an aspiring 11- leader. The crux is not too long, not too hard and not too generic. Also, as the reviewer stated, the gear is bomber. All the pitches are short and the belay ledges are nice. It is possible to rap from some fixed slings at the top of P2 (it wouldn't hurt for someone to replace 1 of them), but the 3rd pitch is worth doing and the walk-off is very easy. For P3, basically head slightly left, then up to the crack.
|By Bryson Slothower|
May 6, 2003
On Cinco De Mayo 2003 there was a good fixed nut at the crux.
|By david goldstein|
Jul 4, 2003
The first pitch is quite nice. The second pitch is an overrated one move wonder. That said, in view of the excellent pro throughout, this would be a good canidate for a first Eldo "11" lead.
Crux is brief and awkward. May be easier for those closer to the ground.
|By Joe Collins|
Sep 22, 2003
Very fun 5.9 climbing to a short crux. Physical jamming to a hard move. I agree with Tony... there are definitely easier 11a's at Eldo.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 27, 2004
There is a new fixed nut at the crux. My partner logged a little air time. Next time, I will bring only a #3 and #3.5 Camalot for the wide crack. The 3.5 fits in a pod at the end of the wide crack.
|By Mark Ferguson|
May 17, 2004
Fixed nut is no longer there, it came out easily with the poke of a nut tool.
|By adam francis|
Jun 14, 2004
There is currently a microwave sized very loose block on the belay ledge beneath the crux. It seems the whole ledge has recently undergone some erosion that has loosened up the block. If someone can safley trundle it, it would be good public service. If you are climbing the first pitch, be really careful when you get to the ledge
|By Shane Zentner|
Oct 3, 2004
Challenging and difficult. (2) #3 Camalots under the crux, a blue Alien at the crux.
|By FC John|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 23, 2006
Agreed with above. A good route for someone looking to break into 11s at Eldo.
Short technical crux which isn't powerful, just sequency with good gear.
|By Bill Flaherty|
From: Evergreen, CO
Oct 14, 2009
One more gear option at the crux: a little red C3. I can attest to the fact that this placement will hold 185 downward-bound pounds. Agreed that it's good for the aspiring 11- leader in that the gear is so solid at the short crux.
|By Brent Apgar|
Nov 21, 2010
+1 on Guy H's beta. I like using an old style 3.5 cam in the pod at the end of the crack. It's a tight fit but a new #4 C4 also works in the same place.
Nov 22, 2010
I've done this one a few times, and something interesting that I noticed - if the sun is shining on it, for some reason I have a harder time seeing certain holds (like the important ones...). Kind of weird. Agree with those above who recommend for an entry level 11 at Eldo, as the protection is very good.
|By Devan Johnson|
Feb 24, 2011
Gets my vote for the softest 11 at Eldo....
|By Matt Toensing|
Nov 13, 2011
I'm surprised that this climb doesn't get more stars. All of the rock is really good. It is short though. The crux was really straightforward for me, not awkward at all. I climbed the upper crack straight in with both feet in the crack. Anchor up top is in good shape.