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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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Muscular Dystrophy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,347
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 1, 2001

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Josh Janes entering the crux of Muscular Dystrophy...

2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>


Up at the top of the West Ridge, this route has nice position. The first pitch is easy 5.9, then comes a nice crux. It is very technical, but not sustained, a 3-move sequence with a big gravity bill waiting for anyone who doesn't keep their eyes and mind wide open. It seems a little harder than some area 5.11a's, but again, the crux is short.


The pro solid for someone of average height. The crux is a bomber small-medium (#6BD) nut placement above the head that is at the feet when the crux is completed. Take a normal rack with 2 big-hand-sized cams for the jams getting up to the crux.

Photos of Muscular Dystrophy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken on Oct. 23, 2004.
BETA PHOTO: Taken on Oct. 23, 2004.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the route.
Starting the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Janes in the crux of Muscular Dystrophy.
Josh Janes in the crux of Muscular Dystrophy.
Rock Climbing Photo: Placing the bomber nut at the crux....
Placing the bomber nut at the crux....
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Janes working hard to pull out of the crux of...
Josh Janes working hard to pull out of the crux of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Placing gear in the crux corner. Photo: Roth.
Placing gear in the crux corner. Photo: Roth.

Comments on Muscular Dystrophy Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 8, 2013
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Aug 12, 2001

I did this climb this morning. This 2 star route is a good choice for an aspiring 11- leader. The crux is not too long, not too hard and not too generic. Also, as the reviewer stated, the gear is bomber. All the pitches are short and the belay ledges are nice. It is possible to rap from some fixed slings at the top of P2 (it wouldn't hurt for someone to replace 1 of them), but the 3rd pitch is worth doing and the walk-off is very easy. For P3, basically head slightly left, then up to the crack.
By Bryson Slothower
May 6, 2003

On Cinco De Mayo 2003 there was a good fixed nut at the crux.
By david goldstein
Jul 4, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The first pitch is quite nice. The second pitch is an overrated one move wonder. That said, in view of the excellent pro throughout, this would be a good canidate for a first Eldo "11" lead.

Crux is brief and awkward. May be easier for those closer to the ground.
By Joe Collins
Sep 22, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Very fun 5.9 climbing to a short crux. Physical jamming to a hard move. I agree with Tony... there are definitely easier 11a's at Eldo.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 27, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

There is a new fixed nut at the crux. My partner logged a little air time. Next time, I will bring only a #3 and #3.5 Camalot for the wide crack. The 3.5 fits in a pod at the end of the wide crack.
By Mark Ferguson
May 17, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fixed nut is no longer there, it came out easily with the poke of a nut tool.
By adam francis
Jun 14, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

There is currently a microwave sized very loose block on the belay ledge beneath the crux. It seems the whole ledge has recently undergone some erosion that has loosened up the block. If someone can safley trundle it, it would be good public service. If you are climbing the first pitch, be really careful when you get to the ledge
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Oct 3, 2004

Challenging and difficult. (2) #3 Camalots under the crux, a blue Alien at the crux.
By FCJohn
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 23, 2006

Agreed with above. A good route for someone looking to break into 11s at Eldo.

Short technical crux which isn't powerful, just sequency with good gear.
By Bill Flaherty
From: Evergreen, CO
Oct 14, 2009

One more gear option at the crux: a little red C3. I can attest to the fact that this placement will hold 185 downward-bound pounds. Agreed that it's good for the aspiring 11- leader in that the gear is so solid at the short crux.
By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Nov 21, 2010

+1 on Guy H's beta. I like using an old style 3.5 cam in the pod at the end of the crack. It's a tight fit but a new #4 C4 also works in the same place.
By slim
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I've done this one a few times, and something interesting that I noticed - if the sun is shining on it, for some reason I have a harder time seeing certain holds (like the important ones...). Kind of weird. Agree with those above who recommend for an entry level 11 at Eldo, as the protection is very good.
By Devan Johnson
Feb 24, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Gets my vote for the softest 11 at Eldo....
By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Nov 13, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I'm surprised that this climb doesn't get more stars. All of the rock is really good. It is short though. The crux was really straightforward for me, not awkward at all. I climbed the upper crack straight in with both feet in the crack. Anchor up top is in good shape.
By climberboy228
Jun 8, 2013

My first 11a lead in Eldo...seemed like a good place to start. Did pitches 1/2 together and was able to rappel with a 60m rope from the top of pitch 2, just after the crux. I placed a 3 and a 3.5 in the top of the wide crack just below where the crack disappears. Then I pulled up and used a face hold to the left and then right before swinging my feet up an over to the right. My partner thought I might be off route. Any comments?

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