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Muscle Shoals 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Martin Hackworth, Ron Snider - 1982
Page Views: 951
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Taking my big cams for a walk...

Description 

A tough little devil that will knock you around a bit if you are new to OW but it protects well with large cams... Basically hop up in there and an heel-toe, grunt, knee-jam, chicken wing and maybe bleed to the top... Or if you are an off-width ace use this as a fun warm up...

Location 

From where the trail gets to the cliff walk right a short way till you see this squeeze chimney/OW under a roof with a hard finger crack a few feet to its right...

Protection 

i used a #6 and two #4.5 camalots... that worked well... bolted anchor at the top...


Photos of Muscle Shoals Slideshow Add Photo
At the only jug on Muscle Shoals.
At the only jug on Muscle Shoals.
Looking up the gapeing crack... photo by james ote...
Looking up the gapeing crack... photo by james ote...
Past the business section of Muscle Shoals.
Past the business section of Muscle Shoals.
Trying to hide... photo james otey
Trying to hide... photo james otey
Morgan on Muscle Shoals.
Morgan on Muscle Shoals.

Comments on Muscle Shoals Add Comment
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By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Damn! I was going to add this one.

As for gear, I'd recommend 2 #6s, if you have them, and a .75 for the pod before the crux. If you don't have 2 #6s, a 5 works pretty well if you place it deep.