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Muscle Shoals 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Martin Hackworth, Ron Snider - 1982
Page Views: 1,264
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

A tough little devil that will knock you around a bit if you are new to OW but it protects well with large cams... Basically hop up in there and an heel-toe, grunt, knee-jam, chicken wing and maybe bleed to the top... Or if you are an off-width ace use this as a fun warm up...

Location 

From where the trail gets to the cliff walk right a short way till you see this squeeze chimney/OW under a roof with a hard finger crack a few feet to its right...

Protection 

i used a #6 and two #4.5 camalots... that worked well... bolted anchor at the top...


Photos of Muscle Shoals Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the only jug on Muscle Shoals.
At the only jug on Muscle Shoals.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the gapeing crack... photo by james ote...
Looking up the gapeing crack... photo by james ote...
Rock Climbing Photo: Taking my big cams for a walk...
Taking my big cams for a walk...
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to hide... photo james otey
Trying to hide... photo james otey
Rock Climbing Photo: Morgan on Muscle Shoals.
Morgan on Muscle Shoals.
Rock Climbing Photo: Past the business section of Muscle Shoals.
Past the business section of Muscle Shoals.

Comments on Muscle Shoals Add Comment
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By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Damn! I was going to add this one.

As for gear, I'd recommend 2 #6s, if you have them, and a .75 for the pod before the crux. If you don't have 2 #6s, a 5 works pretty well if you place it deep.

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