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Muscle Beach 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: John Mallery and Wayne Burleson, 1993
Page Views: 2,927
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 29, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Tim Deroehn, Muscle Beach


If you want to experience Rumney at it's best (or maybe worst?), then look no further than Muscle Beach. The climb starts easily enough, passing a roof. After the roof, the weirdness starts. Expect terrible footholds, terrible hand holds, and a strange feeling that you are still on the wall despite the fact that you really aren't pulling on anything. Then you may realize that you have engaged muscles you never knew you had just to stay on the wall. Then you need to clip, but you realize how futile this proposition really is. Then you grab the draw and/or fall.

Like many other Rumney routes, Muscle Beach does yield once you figure out the contortions, subtleties, and general weirdness required. When you send, you are amazed at how hard it used to feel. That left kneepad didn't hurt though, as you ended up improvising that desperation kneebar at the top. You would have fallen otherwise, but you didn't. You sent. You must be psyched.


Muscle Beach starts to the right of Butt Bongo and is the right route that starts off the raised ledge on the left side of Waimea.


Bolts. Muscle Beach is one of the few routes at Rumney for which a left (rather than right) kneepad is useful.

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By Christopher Lawrence
May 26, 2009

The next to the last bolt is missing the nut and hanger. Apparently the thread is stripped closest to the rock. Does anyone know how to re-tap the thread or does it have to be cut and a new one put in?

I'm psyched for a redpoint attempt and sure there are others as well.

By M Sprague
From: New England
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

It will have to be replaced with a glue in. I'll let Ward know and maybe he can do it, as my drill is stashed somewhere and I'm not planning on being at Rumney with the free time for a few weeks, unless the bugs get hideous elsewhere. Those bolts Mallory used are usually tough to snap and require a lot of beating back and forth to break before you can tap the remains back in the hole and patch it. Don't tap it in before snapping it off, or it may bottom out and be hard to do a nice patch job

By Alli
From: New York, NY
Jun 10, 2009

Hola - was just wondering, has anything changed since the posts above re Muscle Beach?

By Dustin Einig
Jun 16, 2009

People were on it last weekend so my guess is that you are all set Alli.

By Alli
From: New York, NY
Jun 20, 2009

Thanks Doug!

By Jay Knower
From: Plymouth, NH
Jan 22, 2011

Tom sending Muscle Beach:

By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 28, 2011

This is an excellent description and one of the best I have read on mp.

By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

such an interesting route with cool moves all the way to the anchor!!!!! i wasnt well rested for my red point so it was an epic battle but i milked the kneebars and they saved me!

just as physical as it is technical if that sounds like fun to you DO THIS ROUTE!

By David Quinn
Apr 4, 2014

The 5th and 7th bolts on Muscle Beach have been replaced with SS Fixe glue ins. Thanks to the RCA retro bolting initiative. Please support the Rumney Climbers Association, www.climbrumney.com/

5th bolt on Muscle Beach has been replaced
5th bolt on Muscle Beach has been replaced

The old 5th bolt from Muscle Beach at Waimea, Rumney, NH
The old 5th bolt from Muscle Beach at Waimea, Rumney, NH

new Fixe SS 7th bolt, (last bolt) on Muscle Beach, Waimea, Rumney, NH
new Fixe SS 7th bolt, (last bolt) on Muscle Beach, Waimea, Rumney, NH