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Cactus Cliff
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Alexi's Climb 
Alignment, The 
Almost French 
Almost Gothic 
Are You Experiential? 
Awesome Offwidthin' 
Axis of Evil 
Banana Split 
Barbed Wire Love 
Beach Ball 
Beef Cake Formula 
Bionic Minnow 
Black Slabbeth 
Blackman's Burden 
Blade Runner 
Blarney Stone, The 
Blond Princes 
Book of Dude-Aronomy, The 
Cactus Cliff Addict 
Candy for Big Kids 
Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") 
Cellulite District 
Centurion Enigma 
Cheeseburger In Paradise 
Child's Play 
Chompin' at the Cholla 
Christmas Tree 
Chunky Monkey 
Crimpin' and Pimpin' 
Crimpson Candy 
Critic's Choice 
Crynoid Corner 
Cure For The Common Crimp 
Da Fly 
Dances with Cholla 
Dereliction Affliction 
Divinity School 
Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves 
Early Bird 
Et Tu, Brutus 
Fast Food Nation 
Flight of the Phoenix 
French Are Here, The 
Fully Equipped 
Glass Babies 
Glue Slippage 
Good Red Road, The 
Great Expectations 
Half Breed 
Hero Driver 
Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? 
High Heeled Tittty Twister 
Hot Beach 
Hurricane Hinzi 
I Claudius 
I Lean 
I'm Having A Vision 
Ian's Climb 
Illegal Smile 
Impulsive Hands 
Institutional Meat 
Joy of Cholla, The 
Jumpin' the Gun 
Just Thesenga It 
Kalahari Sidewinder 
Killer Toupee, The 
King Louie's Traverse 
La Temperatura de Shelf 
LaCholla Jackson 
Lats Don't Have Feelings 
Legend on the Fall 
Leisure Class 
Manly Bulges 
Midget Toss 
Morning Joe 
Muscle Beach 
New Ethics 
New World Order 
Ol' 47 
Oscar de la Cholla 
Out There Take Anything 
Paleolithic Tool Traditions 
Part Muffalo 
Pick Pocket 
Politically Incorrect 
Poquito Mas 
Puff Daddy 
Purple Corner 
Quasi Quasar 
Raven, The 
Reach Around, The 
Red Eclipse 
Red Giant 
Redman's Burden 
Richard Simmons' Tanktop 
Risky Business 
Shelf Pride 
Short Man's Burden 
Six More Bottles of Basco 
Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass 
Solar Eclipse 
Spray Lord 
Squeeze the Moment 
Stand, The 
Super Suka 
Third Stage 
Three-Quarter Ton 
Thumbs Up 
Tits Up 
Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat 
Total Recount 
Totally Blonde 
Turkey's Bleak 
Two For One 
Under A Blood Red Wall 
Usual Suspects, The 
Utter To A Scream 
Wadsworth Boulevard 
White Punks on Pockets 
Whiteman's Burden 
Working Man 
World Peace 
You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine 

Muscle Beach 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 7,099
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 7, 2001
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Unknown climber enjoying last light on Muscle Beac...


This route share the first two bolts and moves as Afterburner. Climb up a short crack and then angle to the right up into a steep shallow corner. Follow the line of bolts up through the corner and steep face to the anchor. Great climbing on good holds and rock.


Twelve bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos of Muscle Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Austin Brown.
Austin Brown.
Austin Brown.
Austin Brown.
Muscle Beach, Oct. 2011.
Muscle Beach, Oct. 2011.
Nan finishing the crux flake of Muscle Beach.
Nan finishing the crux flake of Muscle Beach.
Near the end of the bulging crux. Photo by Paul Rezucha.
Near the end of the bulging crux. Photo by Paul Re...
Taking advantage of the only rest.
Taking advantage of the only rest.
Nan cruising the lower section.
Nan cruising the lower section.
Cactus Cliff - Left (2). <br /> <br />Errata: Route 31 is Tits Up, Route 32 is Hot Beach.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (2).

Errata: Route 31 is Tits...
Amber up high on "Muscle Beach".
Amber up high on "Muscle Beach".
Starting the crux.  This is how Cactus looked the weekend after the Blizzard of 2003. <br /> <br /> BOB D'ANTONIO'S ROUTES ROCK!
Starting the crux. This is how Cactus looked the ...
Unknown climber, Oct. 2011.
Unknown climber, Oct. 2011.
Comments on Muscle Beach Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 23, 2014
By Dr. Dan
Feb 27, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I am no Shelf Road veteran, but the only climb in the 11 range on this section has to be Muscle Beach. It has its own start in an irregular crack just left of Afterburner. Once through the crack it works straight up on smoother rock on some steep holds and then angles right on the slightly overhanging bulge. It is an excellent route, but rather than 11b/c it felt more like 11a.

By Dave Meyers
From: Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2006

Let's at least stick to the guide book ratings here. Definitely .11a. if this route was at old Shelf (Contest, Freeform, Gallery, etc.) it probably would be .10d.

By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 23, 2008

Like the book says, "Not a single move of 5.11..." what this climb lacks in technical difficulty it only delivers on the pump factor. It's a route I'll get on everytime I go back. Easily the best of the grade at Cactus Cliff.

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Stellar route, but much harder than any 11a's I've done lately, including enduro routes like this one. Harder than Free Willie in Bocan, Fuzzy Undercling at the Red, Reefer Madness in Clear Creek, etc., just to name a few.

Or maybe I just suck.

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

I also noticed that the person who called this 10b/c (what?!) 'cleaned it on TR' and at least one person who called it 11a one-hung on it. Dude. It's an endurance route.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 30, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

There were sure awfully good rests on it. I did it fresh off of a pretty severe injury (just got the splint off of my broken wrist a few weeks ago) that made the other 10s around give me pause... but this one, no. Didn't get pumped, didn't struggle. And I was hanging the draws OS.
I'm not trying to brag, I'm just saying that the 5.10 rating is an available opinion to more than just people who hung on it or followed it. I'd endorse that.

By Hans Hoffman
From: D'iberville, MS
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

The 4/5th bolt is loose. I don't remember exactly which one. I tightened it as much as I could with my hands. Still climbable just thought I'd share.

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 11, 2012

I have done many many routes from 5.10 to 5.13 at Shelf and this is among one of my favorite climbs at any grade. Regardless of the debatable grade (I thought it was roughly 5.9c), it's very enjoyable climbing and can serve as a great warmup for some of the harder routes at Cactus. Do it!!!

By dancesatmoonrise
Dec 2, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Sweet OS this afternoon. Agree the 11 a/b rating is perhaps just a tad soft. Also agree that it is totally classic. True that there is not really any technical crux, but in the upper half is a section that was interesting and had to be worked out without a great rest. Stays on ya most of the upper half. Very well protected, solid modern gear after the fourth bolt. Gave it four stars.

By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
Feb 14, 2013

Definitely a Shelf Road favorite for the grade!

By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Jan 14, 2014

Way fun. Reiterating the above comments, just watch out for the pump. Enjoy!

By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Mar 23, 2014

I thought this route, Blackman's Burden, and Misalignment all felt about the same difficulty, 10+ range. Sustained but lots of big holds and good feet to keep the pump at bay. Great route.