Musafar's Home Cookin' 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | D. Haller, S. Finkelstein, B. Collett |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Ben Collett on Aug 2, 2009 |
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Seth on Pitch 2. The pitch ends on the nice ledge ...
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Description This route goes up the flying buttress on the far right of the main section of the Tan Buttresses. The climbing is not quite as good as the buttress looks, but it still is very fun and well protected.
P1. Follow easy and somewhat vegetated crack and groove systems about 120 feet up and left to belay on a ledge system on the left side of the flying buttress. This pitch was about 5.7.
P2. Step left around the corner and climb a nice, steep, corner system that follows the arete for about 40 feet. Continue up the corner until you hit a pleasant ledge with good gear at 80 feet. 5.9.
P3. Follow the obvious corner system that starts from the left side of the ledge to a fun chimney section. Exit the chimney to a ledge system on the right and head up about 15 feet to another friendly belay on the arete.
P4. Step a couple feet left from the belay and follow a corner system to crest of the ridge following a wide hands section for a while. Follow the ridge past a really cool bit of face climbing and continue up the ridge past a steep step with a wide section past some large blocks. This is probably the best pitch on the route. 140 feet. 5.9.
P5. Continue up the ridge on easy ground until you feel happy unroping and scrambling to the top of the buttress.
Location Descend past Nuthin' But a Good Time and Goat Food, following the ledge system to the end of the buttress. Start on the right side of the front of the flying buttress.
Protection Standard rack. We did have a #5 C4 which was nice for P4.
Pitch 4. The crux of Goat Food is the shaded corne...
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Doug on the chimney on the 3rd pitch. From here, c...
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BETA PHOTO: View of the flying buttress.
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Starting the first pitch.
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BETA PHOTO: The route.
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| Comments on Musafar's Home Cookin' |
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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Aug 19, 2009
| This is an extremely eye catching line.
Good stuff boys!looking forward to climbing it!
josh |
By AOSR
From: Denver
Sep 20, 2010
| Had a good time here. P2 and P3 were both enjoyable. Not sure what happened on P4 - maybe I didn't step far enough left, but I ended up at the rightmost face of the fin. There was a a short couple of moves on the face that led to two huge blocks forming seemingly great cracks allowing one to surmount the slight overhang/roof there. However, once I got up to it I realized the right block was not just huge, but also hollow and really loose. I looked for any other way to go before committing to it. I touched it as little as possible and made it by without sending it. I'm pretty sure is would have killed my partner and likely destroyed my rope/gear below it. It was very heady.
I assume I was off route therefore I can't really speak to the grade of the entire route. The line I did didn't ever seem harder than 5.8 though for what it's worth. |
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