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Murphy's Dome South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beer is Better T 
Black Streak Through Overlap S 
Bottom Feeder S 
Chris and Pete's Wake Up Call T 
Crimes Against Rock (formerly entered as Sideways Smile) T 
Hey, Dude S 
Irish Red S 
King and Eye, The TR 
Murphy's Law S 
Murphy's Stout S 
Pork Meadows S 
Slim Chance S,TR 
Stitch of Time T,S 
Water Witch S 
Where's My Car? S 

Murphy's Law 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Webster & Ellis
Page Views: 117
Submitted By: rob bauer on Nov 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Murphy's Law.

Description 

This isn't my route, but let's include it in the database. The rock on the entire dome is friable, the same as 11 years ago, but this is still a good pitch worth doing when here. It is not exactly a sport climb, just sort of a typical 'Platte spacing on 3/8" bolts.

EDIT: as of 4-5-16, there is now a 2 bolt anchor at the top of this line where you expect one and 4 bolts have been added! (one down at the bottom and 3 on the upper section. Now I guess it is a sport climb.)

[In it's original form, I always took a hard right at the last bolt (which is orphaned by the new bolts) and went 20 odd feet to meet up with the obvious cold-shut anchor bolts. (Otherwise, you'd have to contend with the minefield of rocks waiting to kill your belayer.) Yes, it was more run-out but safer since the climbing was reasonable.]

Location 

This is just about in the middle of the face, left of the arete climb, Bottom Feeder.

Protection 

EDIT: 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with rings.


Photos of Murphy's Law Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: EDIT: now there is an anchor.   Historically, ther...
EDIT: now there is an anchor. Historically, ther...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the block I used as an anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the block I used as an anchor.
Rock Climbing Photo: The new anchor is circled.
BETA PHOTO: The new anchor is circled.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route with a rope on it.
BETA PHOTO: The route with a rope on it.
Rock Climbing Photo: I am not a fan of SMC hangers.
I am not a fan of SMC hangers.
Rock Climbing Photo: About halfway up looking down.
BETA PHOTO: About halfway up looking down.
Rock Climbing Photo: The new anchor bolts.
The new anchor bolts.

Comments on Murphy's Law Add Comment
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By drewhouser
Dec 29, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

We kayaked to The Confluence, drove to the pull-out upstream, threw on our harnesses, and went for a hike up a hill. That's how I found myself here...why I found myself here? I have no idea. Unless you have climbed most of the other crags in the area and are looking to "check them all off," there are better places to go.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Sep 13, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I actually think this is one of the better routes at the crag. I gave it two stars. It is too bad they did not install an anchor when it was established. I think the rock is less friable on this one than on others nearby. In other places there would probably be two more bolts on the line. Be careful getting to the first bolt. I put a cordallete around a big block up top and backed it up with a #3 Camalot a bit higher.

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