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 ADVANCED
Murphy's Dome South Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bottom Feeder S 
Chris and Pete's Wake Up Call T 
Crimes Against Rock (formerly entered as Sideways Smile) T 
Murphy's Law S 
Murphy's Stout S 
Pork Meadows S 
Stitch of Time T,S 
Water Witch S 

Murphy's Dome South Face  


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Location: 39.3741, -105.1657 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,792
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Doug Redosh on Aug 27, 2003
Forecast:
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67° | 54°
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BETA PHOTO: The Dome as seen through the trees on the approach...

Description 

Nice one pitch climbs, mostly friction, with new bolts and 2 bolt anchors. South facing.

Getting There 

Turn to the south off US 285 onto the Foxton Rd. (Actually, with the new intersection, one has to turn right, then go under US285.)Drive the newly paved Foxton Rd. to its end at the junction with Jeffco 96. Turn left and drive 8.5 miles to the second of 2 large parking lots with toilets on the right side of the road (3.0 miles past abondoned S. Platte hotel at confluence, 2.3 past bridge for Colorado trail, 0.5 miles past the Java Dome/Bali Dome approach valley, 0.4 miles past the no swimming signs). Park then walk south along the road (Half Dome is just above) for 200 yards, then cut uphill to a faint trail that loops back to the north and leads to the crag. 15 minutes. Crag is not visible from the north, but if you drive too far, there will be a major road junction in another 1.5 miles or so, so one could turnaround and see it from the south.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.9 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Murphy's Dome South Face
Unknown 5.9.  Pulling over the little arch to the last bolt.  Photo by Mark Cummit.

Stitch of Time 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CO : South Platte : ... : Murphy's Dome South Face
I believe this route is the first bolted route right of the arete that divides the main face, and 2 completed routes left of the obvious, left-facing dihedral of Chris and Pete's Wake Up Call. Stem/friction up to first bolt, then place gear in incipient crack. The crux is stepping back left from right groove with good nut placement onto the face to clip 2nd bolt. It has good friction climbing. There is a 2 bolt anchor. All the bolts looked new. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Murphy's Dome South Face
Comments on Murphy's Dome South Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Petty
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 4, 2010
Some routes in this area do not have double-bolt anchors. The approximate Lat/Long are:
39.374052, -105.16574.
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Apr 22, 2012
Seems like the routes on Murphey's are graded a little steeper (or would that be softer?) than some other domes in SPlatte. Thinking back on Topo Oceans (The Dome), Java Dome and a few other Splatte slabs and the climbs here I would rate a 1/2 to a full grade harder than found in MP. Expect some friable rock, doesn't seem like Murphey's gets much traffic.