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Mural Wall 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ta-Chi Wang
Season: East facing
Page Views: 35
Submitted By: greg k on Jun 18, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Do the extension!

Description 

the interesting climbing starts almost half way up on vertical crack and face holds, depositing one on whale size ledge under the leviathan itself. didn't notice any anchors there and instead continued up to newer glue-ins on left side of moby's head

Location 

starts right of moby dick slot on left angling ramp and climbs straight to the whale's chin.

Protection 

standard rack
316 steel (2011)


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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Jul 10, 2016

For me, the only 5.10 move felt like the one getting off the mid-way ledge. This is protected by very thin gear that is hard to place. I ended up just "cheating" left to place it, then down-climbing to do the move. From there, the route wanders right along horizontals with cool pocket jugs. Once you snag the left-trending weakness, it's an easy ramble to the alcove below the head. Build a gear belay or continue left. This route is extremely difficult to clean on lower or rappel - recommended that someone follow it.

A fun extension would be to continue around the right side of the roof to the top of the Whale's Head.

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