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Horse Rampart
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Mung 
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Wolf Dog 

Mung 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Pete Cleveland, Roger Wiegand
Page Views: 1,365
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Sep 3, 2008
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Me fishing for gear on an onsight of Mung. Photo ...

Description 

Tricky and overhanging crack followed by jugs higher up. The crux is avoiding pumping out at the right facing corner below the small roof but it's far from over after that. Skinny fingers come in handy. Fun route.


Location 

Detached tower at the end of the Horse Rampart. 40 ft past Via Apia.


Protection 

The route protects very well. Small to medium nuts, medium to large Aliens or Camalots up to #2. Additional #4 Camalot is very useful in protecting the lower part.



Photos of Mung Slideshow Add Photo
Henning Boldt flashing Mung. September '08.
Henning Boldt flashing Mung. September '08.
Vinny.
Vinny.
Current Hoofer's club Prez firing off "Mung" on sight (I think) on lead.
Current Hoofer's club Prez firing off "Mung" on si...
Comments on Mung Add Comment
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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 4, 2008

Not much to look at it, tucked away in a little corner of Horse Rampart (the area was originally known as "Saddle Rocks," a pun of sorts?), this is easily one of the ten best 5.9's at the Lake. And very leadable.

Here is the description from the Climbers and Hikers Guide to Devils Lake (1970):

MUNG, F9A. This is the crack system on the N face of the buttress. The protection is good, provided you don't fall off trying to place it. This climb is best broken up into 12 foot pitches. First ascent by Peter Cleveland and Roger Wiegand, using one bivouac.

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 4, 2008

Yes!! Agreed! This is one of the best routes for the grade at DL. It's a challenge but takes excellent gear..... Avoiding the temptation to bivi (or merely rest briefly)at the tree ledge halfway can be an added difficulty..... I should have figured it was Pete C. who gave it it's name.... sounds very fitting.

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Sep 4, 2008

Thanks guys! I like the idea of breaking the route into 12 foot pitches. There's a great bivy spot just below the crux, which can be reached by stepping off the route 4 feet to the left.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Pumpy for sure. Great climb and great gear.

By Woodchuck ATC
Jul 27, 2011

Absolutely a '3 pitch' climb. I stepped off to the left about every 15 ft. for that needed rest. A really fun route to lead; takes gear easily. Always dark in that corner, tough to get some good pics of the moves.

By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 3, 2011

A weird shoulder jam thing (see picture) allowed for a pretty good almost no hands rest before the last roof, no stepping out left needed.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jul 25, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Great route! It's hard to find good 5.9's in the park that are this fun to lead.