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By Brook Wager
From: Steamboat Springs, CO
May 20, 2012
There are 2 sets of bolts w/ chains that allow for toprope of a bolted line on the left side of the face which may be a varient of "Headwall", Est by Mike Head at 10+.
The chains on climbers right allow for toprope of a deep corner that allows for stemming and thin moves to an offwidth layback overhang at 10+. This route is known as "Bk's bulge".
"Tys Line" is a nice 5.7 trad line leads up the face on the right up slabs and finger cracks to a R hand traverse which allows you to turn the roof on the right and continue up easy cracks to a solid belay stance. gear: mixed small cams and nuts to 2" cams, bring a few slings.
A topo is available in the 2010 guide Texas Franklin Mountain Range Climbers Guide by Lowell Stevenson, p80, which describes the following routes from left to right: Meltdown 5.9, Head Wall 10+, V-ramp moderate slabs, Gem Cracks 5.9+.
From: El Paso, Texas USA
Jun 17, 2013
|I'd like to add these to the new guide coming out soon.|
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