|Wilmington Notch - High Falls Crag
Depending on how well it's formed, the crux is either at the chimney or at the very top exit move.
Double-rope rappel or walk off to the left towards Wilmington (walk off is a pain - no trail - pretty alpine exit).
Screws and small trad rack if it's thin (fist-sized cam for the crux chimney if the ice is thin).
starting p2 of M Gully
BETA PHOTO: Approaching the top of P1
BETA PHOTO: Multi Gully as seen from 86 -- your passenger will...
BETA PHOTO: Midway up P2
BETA PHOTO: Multiplication Gully from approach
BETA PHOTO: Looking up P2 from the belay
|By Adam Catalano|
From: Albany, New York
Mar 1, 2007
Not fun to follow another party up. An inexperienced climber will rain ice chunks down the narrow chute. Only time I've ever been bloodied. Be the first there in the morning or just wait for the party ahead to rap down.
|By Matt Jungers|
Mar 28, 2007
I'll second Adam's comment. There's really no sense in hopping on the route with a party above whether they're experienced or inexperienced. Ice will inevitably be sent down the gully, and you WILL be in the firing line. A short first pitch up to the cedars on the left will set you up for a money 2nd pitch to the top.
|By Auto-X Fil|
From: NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
May 25, 2011
Yep, I wouldn't bother parking if there's another car in the lot.
You can belay at the cedars or at a pin right below the crux. The first pitch is short to very short, and quite easy. The second pitch is long and varied, with excellent climbing.
|By Matt Baer|
Apr 12, 2012
Steep Approach! Fun first pitch and an excellent 2nd pitch! 60m rope needed for the 2nd pitch! Great views and winds make it feel like an alpine route
|By Matt Glue|
From: Boulder, CO
May 21, 2013
With a 70m rope it can just barely be done in a single pitch.