Multiplication Gully WI3+
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| Type: | Ice, 3 pitches, 225 feet |
| Consensus: | WI3+ [details] |
| FA: | Alan Spero, Tom Worthington 2/4/75 |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Nov 25, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Multi Gully as seen from 86 -- your passenger will...
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Description Depending on how well it's formed, the crux is either at the chimney or at the very top exit move.
Location Double-rope rappel or walk off to the left towards Wilmington (walk off is a pain - no trail - pretty alpine exit).
Protection Screws and small trad rack if it's thin (fist-sized cam for the crux chimney if the ice is thin).
BETA PHOTO: Approaching the top of P1
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BETA PHOTO: Midway up P2
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up P2 from the belay
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| Comments on Multiplication Gully |
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By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Mar 1, 2007
| Not fun to follow another party up. An inexperienced climber will rain ice chunks down the narrow chute. Only time I've ever been bloodied. Be the first there in the morning or just wait for the party ahead to rap down. |
By Matt Jungers
Mar 28, 2007
rating: WI3+
| I'll second Adam's comment. There's really no sense in hopping on the route with a party above whether they're experienced or inexperienced. Ice will inevitably be sent down the gully, and you WILL be in the firing line. A short first pitch up to the cedars on the left will set you up for a money 2nd pitch to the top. |
By Auto-X Fil
From: NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
May 25, 2011
| Yep, I wouldn't bother parking if there's another car in the lot.
You can belay at the cedars or at a pin right below the crux. The first pitch is short to very short, and quite easy. The second pitch is long and varied, with excellent climbing. |
By Matt Baer
Apr 12, 2012
rating: WI3+
| Steep Approach! Fun first pitch and an excellent 2nd pitch! 60m rope needed for the 2nd pitch! Great views and winds make it feel like an alpine route |
By Matt Glue
From: Albany, NY
1 day ago
| With a 70m rope (or better yet, two) it can just barely be done in a single pitch. |
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