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Wilmington Notch - High Falls Crag
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Multiplication Gully 

Multiplication Gully 

WI3+

   
Type:  Ice, 3 pitches, 225'
Consensus: WI3+ [details]
FA: Alan Spero, Tom Worthington 2/4/75
Page Views: 4,313
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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BETA PHOTO: first pitch of M Gully in fat conditions

Description 

Depending on how well it's formed, the crux is either at the chimney or at the very top exit move.


Location 

Double-rope rappel or walk off to the left towards Wilmington (walk off is a pain - no trail - pretty alpine exit).


Protection 

Screws and small trad rack if it's thin (fist-sized cam for the crux chimney if the ice is thin).



Photos of Multiplication Gully Slideshow Add Photo
starting p2 of M Gully
starting p2 of M Gully
Approaching the top of P1
BETA PHOTO: Approaching the top of P1
Multi Gully as seen from 86 -- your passenger will only get a glimpse of the route as you drive past.
BETA PHOTO: Multi Gully as seen from 86 -- your passenger will...
Midway up P2
BETA PHOTO: Midway up P2
Multiplication Gully from approach
BETA PHOTO: Multiplication Gully from approach
Looking up P2 from the belay
BETA PHOTO: Looking up P2 from the belay
Comments on Multiplication Gully Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Mar 1, 2007

Not fun to follow another party up. An inexperienced climber will rain ice chunks down the narrow chute. Only time I've ever been bloodied. Be the first there in the morning or just wait for the party ahead to rap down.

By Matt Jungers
Mar 28, 2007
rating: WI3+

I'll second Adam's comment. There's really no sense in hopping on the route with a party above whether they're experienced or inexperienced. Ice will inevitably be sent down the gully, and you WILL be in the firing line. A short first pitch up to the cedars on the left will set you up for a money 2nd pitch to the top.

By Auto-X Fil
From: NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
May 25, 2011

Yep, I wouldn't bother parking if there's another car in the lot.

You can belay at the cedars or at a pin right below the crux. The first pitch is short to very short, and quite easy. The second pitch is long and varied, with excellent climbing.

By Matt Baer
Apr 12, 2012
rating: WI3+

Steep Approach! Fun first pitch and an excellent 2nd pitch! 60m rope needed for the 2nd pitch! Great views and winds make it feel like an alpine route

By Matt Glue
From: Boulder, CO
May 21, 2013

With a 70m rope it can just barely be done in a single pitch.