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Multipitch Sport in CCC or BC?
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By Orphaned
Apr 25, 2008

The database tool doesn't seem to be able to tell me whether a route is long or short, so I'll just ask people who know.

I'm hoping to climb some multipitch sport routes, between 11c-12b, ideally they would be sustained.

Solid Gold in CCC is the only one in the canyon I know of. I'd like to find something like that but hopefully longer.

Does this exist in these parts?


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By Casey Bernal
From Arvada, CO
Apr 25, 2008

Behind The Sun

Garrett's Revenge can be done with the start of Ride the Snake for a QD only sport climb.

I think that Solid Gold is the longest sport climb in CCC. Dream Canyon has some long sport climbs. For anything longer you have to go to the splatte.


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By Casey Bernal
From Arvada, CO
Apr 25, 2008

Is there such a thing as "obsolete" trad?

Check out Sheeprock for some long sport climbs. Most of them aren't at the 11 to 12 range but there are a couple. They are on slabs but there are face climbing features. Certainly not the quick urban sport burn ...


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By James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2008
Ghostride da whip!

Try these:

Global Gorilla, Animal World
Earth Voyage, Lost Angel

Haven't done them personally, but I've heard they are good. Maybe not as long as you are looking for, but still sustained.
There is other stuff in Dream that would fit the bill as well.


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By Buff Johnson
Apr 25, 2008
smiley face

John, Possibly also the River Wall (just don't fall).

With Solid Gold, Creekside also has other stuff. Solid Gold is the current to date as well as Spun Gold & Brennivin; there's a ton of potential on that rock.

Get Mabe's book, it's good.


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By Mark Tarrant
May 10, 2008

You should check out Empire (Ra and The Halidome) for lots of multi-pitch sport routes in the .11-.12 range. The season is starting up now on warm days, (best temps from late May through mid October).


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By TBD
May 10, 2008

Too, on little eiger


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By Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
May 11, 2008

If only it was that easy John.... Too is the most sustained multi-pitch in CCC, and it is not that sustained. Just run laps on the Anarchy or Primo Walls for a good pump.

Or just go out and jump on Childhood's End, you don't need no stinking trainer climb ya puss.


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By winston
From Boulder, CO
May 11, 2008
napping with the dog, the best damn dog on earth.

Strange Cargo (5.11) in Upper Dream Canyon on Lost Angel wall is cool, also if the raptor nesting is over (I'm not sure when it is) the Young and the Rackless (5.9ish) is also fun.


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By Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
May 11, 2008

I'd go for the barefoot send....it would be sweet. You could fix the whole thing and leave ropes up for the season, then run out there, meditate on the ravens, and do a lap. Just make sure you video tape yourself as you will probably not attract any attention otherwise.

Seem to be all healed up, and would love to throw some sand your way. How was Moonlight?


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By david goldstein
May 12, 2008

Not One of Us in CCC (way better than Too!) and Earth Voyage in Dream Canyon would get my vote as the two best I've done, but for concentration of good multi pitch sport routes, Ra is a great destination on a hot day.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 13, 2008
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

We got a good look at Ra in Empire a while back. It's really impressive.

www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/empire/ra/105761151

4 pitches.


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By Buff Johnson
May 13, 2008
smiley face

Yeah Langston - Empire!!

Jenny's has some great pie also


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